One other Friday, one other listing! This week, we’re highlighting the perfect pre-Daytona Rolex chronographs. Whereas most watch followers know of such fashions’ existence, it’s not one thing we deal with usually. That is for apparent causes. The legacy of the Daytona has turn into one of many business’s biggest success tales, so that’s the place the main focus is. Plus, the Daytona remains to be within the model’s assortment, which makes it related to speak about. However that doesn’t imply the classic Rolex chronographs aren’t. That’s why we needed to focus on 5 traditional Rolex chronographs from the pre-Daytona period this week.
When you observe our Prime 5 lists each week, you recognize I’ve gone down the Rolex rabbit gap currently. This yr, I hope to purchase a classic Rolex Datejust, so I’ve been particularly studying and trying to find the one Datejust 1601 with my title on it. However as soon as I began studying about classic Rolex fashions, I couldn’t cease on the Datejust. As most of you recognize, classic Rolex is a world filled with great watches that stand out for a lot of causes. Pre-Daytona Rolex chronograph fashions are a collection of watches I’ve been studying about currently. They’re a number of the most fascinating watches the Genevan model has ever created, which led us to choose 5 for this week’s listing.
Rolex Chronograph ref. 3525
Let’s begin this listing with a correct oldie. The Rolex ref. 3525 debuted in 1938 and goes by the nickname “Monoblocco” as a result of the 35mm case and bezel had been one strong piece of metal or gold. Two-tone (metal/gold) variants’ instances weren’t one piece of metallic, however Rolex followers additionally name them Monoblocco because it’s merely simpler. This particular reference can be the primary identified Rolex chronograph with an early or transitional Oyster case that includes a waterproof screw-in again and screw-down crown. This improvement was pivotal in shifting chronographs from dressy watches to extra useful every day wearers and, in a while, sporty device watches.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Ref. 3525 can be well-known as a Prisoner of Warfare watch that Rolex made out there to officers of the Allied forces throughout WWII. Many manufacturers did the identical, however individuals nonetheless bear in mind Rolex for providing this service. On high of that, this chronograph was a really dependable watch that always survived these darkish occasions flawlessly. Rolex geared up the watches with the Valjoux 23 caliber. This column-wheel chronograph motion operated at 18,000vph and provided 48 hours of energy reserve.
Picture: Phillips
Many variations of the Rolex ref. 3525
Rolex produced a wide range of dials for the two-register ref. 3525. Because of each their layouts and colours, some variations are value mentioning. The most typical dial colours had been white and black. Nonetheless, as you’ll perceive, the colours differ drastically these days because of discoloration. You will see that examples with dials which have some lovely patina. When it comes to design variations, the most typical model contains a triple-scale format, which incorporates tachymeter and telemeter scales encircling the railroad minute scale. On the white dials, the tachymeter scale was black, whereas the telemeter scale was blue for some good distinction. The black-dial variations characteristic gilt markers that make the watch look tremendous elegant.
Picture: Phillips
One other two-register dial design was a lot simpler on the attention. It merely had a 60-second/minute scale on the perimeter. This design was additionally out there for silver and black dials and considerably modified the watch’s presence. Total, the ref. 3525 is likely one of the most fascinating classic Rolex chronographs. It comes with a number of fascinating historic tales and nonetheless seems to be wonderful.
Picture: Phillips
The model stopped producing the ref. 3525 in 1946, proper after World Warfare II. After that, Rolex began making chronographs with extra fashionable case shapes, as we’ll see later on this article. Because the 3525 sometimes pops up at auctions, it may simply fetch something between €35K and €85K relying on the case materials and situation. What that may get you is considered one of Rolex’s biggest historic storytellers.
Picture: Phillips
Rolex Chronograph ref. 4500
In 1946, Rolex launched the ref. 4500, which we might name the follow-up to the ref. 3525. The watch can be the primary Rolex chronograph with an Oyster case as we all know it in the present day. As you may see, this watch’s case design has the acquainted Oyster model that we acknowledge from the early Datejust fashions. The ref. 4500 featured a 36mm case with notably straighter lugs than the 3525.
Picture: Phillips
Rolex produced the ref. 4500 in stainless-steel, a mixture of gold and metal, 9K pink gold, and a full 18K yellow gold. The 2-tone model is especially fascinating to see with its gold bezel and crown. Additionally, the 9K pink gold variations are extremely uncommon and delightful, elegant chronographs.
Picture: Phillips
The identical Valjoux 23 motion however a special dial
Contained in the ref. 4500’s case, Rolex used the identical manual-winding Valjoux 23 because the ref. 3525. However whereas the motion remained, the dial modified a bit. It did hold the intricate multi-scale design with a blue telemeter scale inside the black tachymeter scale on the dial’s periphery. Nonetheless, Rolex used utilized markers and numerals for the dial of the ref. 4500.
Picture: Phillips
However it might not be Rolex if there weren’t numerous variations. Now we have additionally seen dials with out utilized markers however luminous ones as an alternative. Within the ref. 4500’s brief manufacturing run from 1946 till 1949, Rolex predominantly produced the watch with white dials, however additionally, you will see an occasional model with a black dial. Moreover, it’s attainable to search out the simplified dial designs of the ref. 3525 for the 4500. Asking costs for the Rolex Chronograph ref. 4500 are roughly between €25K and €50K and closely depending on the situation. Those in nice situation simply fetch much more at auctions, the place they pop up sometimes.
Picture: Phillips
Rolex Oyster Chronograph ref. 5034
The illustrious Rolex Oyster Chronograph ref. 5034 is an ultra-rare hen. Rolex launched this reference in 1949, and it was gone from the catalog in 1950. Consequently, it is likely one of the most sought-after classic Rolex chronographs. It’s often not possible to search out on the market as a result of Rolex solely produced 12 yellow gold and 12 pink gold examples.
Picture: Phillips
The 35mm gold case was paired with a white dial that featured three registers and a number of scales. As soon as extra, the tachymeter scale was printed in black, whereas the telemeter scale was executed in blue. On the within of the 60-minute observe, Rolex used massive utilized gold numerals at 12 o’clock, and the remaining hour markers had been utilized teardrop-shaped indexes. As you may see, the fairly busy dial options a number of overlapping printed scales. This, after all, impacts the readability. However what it lacks in readability, it makes up for in allure.
Picture: Phillips
The well-known Valjoux 72 chronograph motion
Contained in the case, you’ll find the legendary Valjoux 72 motion. This 17-jewel manual-winding chronograph caliber operated at 18,000vph and provided 48 hours of energy reserve. The caliber debuted in 1938 and remained in manufacturing till 1974. Alongside the way in which, it powered quite a few legendary chronographs, together with the Breitling Navitimer and the Rolex Daytona. Because the ref. 5034 is so uncommon, it’s laborious to place a worth on it. However collectors are keen to spend lots of of 1000’s of euros for this a lot sought-after Rolex chronograph that some take into account the beginning of the Daytona’s lineage.
Picture: Phillips
Rolex Oyster Chronograph ref. 6236
This listing wouldn’t be full with out one of many well-known Rolex triple-calendar chronographs. I picked the Rolex Oyster Chronograph ref. 6236, which was the final of the Dato-Compax fashions. Rolex followers additionally confer with this collection of watches because the “Jean-Claude Killy.” Nonetheless, as a few of you could know, the well-known French alpine skier and Rolex ambassador was by no means photographed carrying this watch. Nonetheless, it’s believed that he owned one. Funnily sufficient, Rolex did characteristic Killy in advertisements selling the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which individuals usually name the “Steve McQueen.”
Picture: Phillips
The collection of Dato-Compax “Jean-Claude Killy” chronographs consists of the ref. 4768, ref. 4767, ref. 5036, ref. 6036, and the ref. 6236 I picked for this listing. All of those are among the many most intricate watches that Rolex has ever created. The collection mixed a chronograph with a calendar displaying the day, date, and month. The primary of those references got here out in 1947. Supposedly, the ref. 6236 was produced from 1958 till 1962 in very small numbers. Consequently, it makes the watch a rarity, and we all know what meaning for desirability and worth within the Rolex universe.
Picture: Phillips
The triple-calendar format was clear and easy
The watch featured a 36mm stainless-steel or gold case. In comparison with the prior ref. 6036, this three-part case sported a bigger bezel. Consequently, the watch seems to be extra fashionable and sportier, which is a glance that I a lot want. Its case was mixed with a white dial that includes three registers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. At 12, you’ll find the day and month indicators, and on the dial’s periphery, you’ll find the date scale printed in blue. Indicating the date was an extended hand with an arrow-shaped tip that stood out from the leaf-shaped hour and minute fingers and the blued central chronograph seconds hand. As soon as once more, the mix of blue and black printing on the dial creates an fascinating coloration dynamic that we don’t see usually these days.
Picture: Phillips
Contained in the case, Rolex geared up the watches with the Valjoux 72C caliber. This was the triple-calendar model of the usual Valjoux 72 chronograph motion. Like the usual chronograph model, the 17-jewel caliber operated at 18,000vph and provided 48 hours of energy reserve.
Picture: Phillips
As you may see within the photos, the watch featured two further corrector buttons on the left aspect of the case to regulate the calendar features when mandatory. Wanting again on this beautiful ref. 6236 sparks many needs to see a brand new triple-calendar chronograph from Rolex in some unspecified time in the future. Till then, the ref. 6236 “Jean-Claude Killy” is a good testomony to the sensible previous with a price ticket outlined by what collectors are keen to spend on it.
Picture: Phillips
Rolex Chronograph ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”
The final decide for this listing is the Rolex Chronograph ref. 6238, which most individuals know because the “Pre-Daytona.” This was the final of the traditional Rolex chronographs earlier than the model launched the now-famous Daytona. It’s my favourite Rolex chronograph and considered one of my favourite classic Rolex fashions generally. I wrote a lengthy article concerning the reference and defined all of the variations that Rolex created. If you wish to know extra concerning the ref. 6238, I’d counsel studying that in-depth take a look at this particular reference. However let’s go over some particulars to search out out extra!
Picture: Hodinkee Store
The Rolex ref. 6238 was produced from 1962 till 1968 and led to the introduction of the Daytona ref. 6239. The watch is essential within the lineage of Rolex chronographs as a result of it creates the design bridge between the traditional chronographs on this article and the brand new period that began with the primary Daytona references.
Picture: Hodinkee Store
Throughout its six years of manufacturing, the ref. 6238 modified from a classically styled chronograph to a extra fashionable one utilizing the fingers and dial components of many Nineteen Fifties Rolex classics. Many of those later design cues have remained within the Rolex lineup to today. A enjoyable reality is that Rolex produced the 6238 alongside the primary Daytona references for just a few years. It begs the query of which one you’ll have picked again in these days.
Picture: Phillips
Picture: Phillips
Picture: Phillips
Quite a lot of supplies, colours, and dial designs
The watch featured a 36mm case with a easy bezel and the tachymeter scale printed on the dial. Rolex produced the watch in stainless-steel, 14K yellow gold, and 18K yellow gold. Over six years, the model created 14 dial variants for the ref. 6238. That’s a fairly ridiculous quantity, but it surely exhibits how essential the reference was in transitioning from one period to the following. The stainless-steel model was out there with silver, grey, and black dials, whereas the gold variations provided black and silver dials. The black-dial variants, whether or not in metal or gold, are by far the rarest and most fascinating for collectors.
Picture: Phillips
Picture: Phillips
Picture: Phillips
Rolex model started this reference’s manufacturing through the use of conventional leaf fingers and a transitional dial with utilized diamond markers and the “Rolex Oyster Chronograph” textual content. After a while, nonetheless, the model switched to baton fingers and indexes, thus creating the model that we all know so effectively. On high of that, the wording on the dial modified to easily “Rolex Chronograph.” I am keen on that model with the baton fingers and indexes and easy wording. In stainless-steel with a grey dial, it’s amongst my favourite watches ever created.
Picture: Watch Membership
Two Valjoux actions
Throughout its manufacturing run, Rolex used the Valjoux 72B caliber and the follow-up Valjoux 722 for the ref. 6238. Each 17-jewel column-wheel chronograph calibers operated at 18,000vph and offered 48 hours of energy reserve. Whereas the Valjoux 72 collection was made well-known largely as a result of it powered the manual-winding Daytonas, it was additionally featured in quite a few legendary chronographs, together with this beautiful ref. 6238.
Picture: Phillips
Talking of legends, the Rolex Chronograph ref. 6238 can be a Bond watch. George Lazenby famously wore it within the 007 film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. This solely provides to the sensible story of this “Pre-Daytona” ref. 6238, which is the final of the traditional Rolex chronographs and, subsequently, the proper ultimate decide for this listing. You could find this reference beginning at roughly €35K and shifting as much as €200K for the uncommon variants.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Remaining ideas on our Prime 5 pre-Daytona Rolex chronograph fashions
As you’ll perceive, this listing is simply the tip of the iceberg. There are a number of different fashions that every one include distinctive tales. On high of that, Rolex collectors have completed intensive research discussing the traditional Rolex chronographs in nice element. That’s why this listing might be thought-about a short introduction to a way more intensive world of Rolex historical past. If something, I will likely be catching up on my required studying, and I hope you loved a peek into the brilliance of those beautiful chronographs. Tell us which one is your favourite, and we’ll see you subsequent week for a brand new listing!
Header picture: Bulang & Sons
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