Within the thrilling world of patent regulation, “trademark policing” refers back to the lively upkeep wherein a model engages to forestall a product from struggling “genericide” — the dreaded late stage when a product’s identify has grow to be so embedded within the vernacular that its trademark is now not protected. To keep away from the destiny of the “Zipper” (sure, that was a reserved product identify at one level), Velcro’s authorized group did its greatest in 2017 to defend its treasured “®” by reminding us that we should always all be saying hook-and-loop, not Velcro. And whereas there’s no trademark to guard by releasing one other model of the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days, it positive looks like Bulgari is working onerous to make sure watch collectors do not forget that on the subject of super-thin watches with near-endless energy reserve, it guidelines the roost. Functionally and dimensionally, there’s nothing totally different in regards to the latest member of the Octo sub-collection. However materially, it’s acquired a little bit of an replace. This replace is simply sufficient to advantage inclusion at this 12 months’s Watches & Wonders present in Geneva, the place aBlogtoWatch went hands-on with the nonetheless spectacular, nonetheless skinny, black DLC titanium model of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days.
The final time we noticed the Skeleton 8 Days from the Octo Finissimo line was in 2023. At that time, it had developed from its debut in pink gold on leather to a extra utilitarian titanium bracelet model. Now, it has taken on its third iteration that lands someplace between the primary two. Nonetheless crafted from titanium, it’s now encased in black DLC-coated materials of the grade 5 selection. That helps give it a stealthy vibe discovered on different extra tool-oriented watches, however some parts — the crown, arms, indices, printing, and energy reserve — are again to the golden class of the preliminary model. Specs-wise, every thing stays the identical: it’s nonetheless the identical angular 40mm Octo Finissimo case that’s simply 5.95mm thick, with sapphire crystals on either side to maximise the view of the motion. Regardless of its derivation, it’s simply as spectacular as when the primary Octo Finissimo was launched a few years in the past. The thinness is simply surreal, however that is in all probability accentuated by the watch’s weight (or lack thereof) on account of the titanium. Due to this and the substitution of a bracelet for a rubber strap, that is simply the lightest Skeleton 8 Days but.
Regardless of its pragmatic end, that is no software watch, as evidenced by the absence of luminous materials on the arms and hour markers. That’s simply as effectively, seeing as it is a timepiece constructed for different functions. As with earlier variants, the watch’s thinness and its lengthy energy reserve are the headline promoting factors, whereas every thing else is generally simply an accent. The gold and black combo isn’t new, but it surely appears to be like nice, as does the distinction between the gleaming reflective gold arms and markers, and the rugged appears to be like of the blasted bridges and matte case. Because it makes use of the identical motion as its two predecessors, the dial format is an identical, as effectively, which looks like a missed alternative. Whereas a skeletonized design means extra materials has been decreased to absolutely the minimal, so general weight is as little as potential, it might have been attention-grabbing to see this one with a extra standard dial like these discovered on different items within the Octo Finissimo line. There’s a chance to experiment right here.
Like earlier variations, the 2025 mannequin makes use of Bulgari’s BVL199 caliber, a hand-winding motion with 192 hours of energy reserve that’s simply 2.5mm thick. Longevity like that is price promoting, therefore the stylized cursive “eight days” textual content on the dial aspect. It’s attributable to the large most important spring, the largest single visible factor throughout the motion, and when totally wound, it takes over per week to launch all its vitality. Apparently, evidently even in its third look, the BVL199 stays unchanged when it comes to materials and elegance. Whereas some producers choose to customise ending and metals based mostly on a watch’s different parts, the BVL199 seems precisely the identical all through the Skeleton 8 Days sub-collection. Is it potential that the engineering is so finely balanced that modifications simply aren’t potential? Positive. Is it potential that Bulgari made extra of those actions than they wanted on earlier runs? Additionally, sure. Is it potential that the prices to tweak the motion — even just a bit — have been decided to be too excessive? Whereas it’s disappointing to suppose, that is potential, too. The BVL199 is, certainly, a stunning motion and a feat of technological improvement. However particularly in a watch that leans so closely on skeletonized design, some updates — even minor ones — would have been appreciated.
Regardless of its lack of really new innovation, the most recent Skeleton 8 Days is a powerful watch. Nevertheless, it’s spectacular in the best way its predecessors have been spectacular: skinny and with quite a lot of energy reserve. Now, it’s accessible in black, and sure, it’s lighter than ever, due to a rubber strap, however is that sufficient to justify its existence? Given the presence of different black DLC titanium items inside Bulgari’s Octo household, we are able to rule out the brand new case remedy as some long-awaited improvement, and the BVL199 — important as it’s — isn’t new tech both. As a substitute of attempting to quantify the latest Skeleton 8 Days on these dimensions, maybe we should always make peace with the truth that within the realm of haute horology, a new colorway is often what passes for an exciting development. Bulgari has the tech and the know-how on its aspect. We’re hopeful the following technology of the Skeleton 8 Days pushes the envelope. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days in black DLC titanium is priced at $24,400 USD. For extra info please go to the Bulgari website.
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