To that finish, the Rallymaster III isn’t a costume watch, however it isn’t fairly a sports activities watch both. If I needed to describe it (which I suppose I kind of do), it’s the kind of well-put-together, thoughtfully thought-about watch that simply… exists; the form of watch so many people actually take pleasure in, even when we will’t fairly articulate why. In spirit, the expertise of the Rallymaster III is just not not like an excellent classic piece. In my time with the watch, I discover myself reaching for it once I would possibly in any other case put on my two-tone Datejust or a classic costume watch.
Funnily, once I first noticed this piece launched, the Rallymaster III didn’t do a lot to attract my consideration. It’s simple to dismiss the third in a collection as by-product by nature, and (at the least in principle) I used to be much more intrigued by both of the 2 earlier releases. The Rallymasters I and II every used a extremely enjoyable combo of pink and pale blue. They stood out on Instagram and in shiny print adverts, however in apply, the muted inexperienced and cream colorway of the Rallymaster III is an enchancment. Nicely, possibly not an enchancment, however the brand new colorway definitely hews nearer to my very own style, and I feel will likely be a greater slot in most wardrobes.
The dial itself is a masterstroke of design. Whereas clearly impressed by tennis — the online motif throughout the middle of the dial and the tennis ball–inexperienced lume on the small seconds subdial and hand go away little question as to the watch’s origin — nothing in regards to the watch feels limiting. The inexperienced used is of a barely desaturated hue and is properly complemented by the lotions and browns (and sure, pink) used elsewhere on the dial. The matte dial is textured and nearly appears like tightly drawn leather-based. It’s an impact I’m unsure I’ve encountered earlier than, and it’s hanging in individual.
A color-matched date wheel with cream textual content on a inexperienced backing is a welcome alternative, whereas a steeply raked chapter ring with racing-style minute observe surrounds the dial and climbs towards the stepped bezel, bringing some welcome depth to the Rallymaster. The 18k rose gold markers and palms add a contact of magnificence to the now-familiar format and are emphasised by an identical 18k gold crown. I’ve gone forwards and backwards on using non-matching crowns on watch circumstances, however it works right here, so I’m not going to overthink it.
On the wrist, the Rallymaster III is precisely what you’ll need it to be. The watch sits squarely within the coronary heart of what I’d name “fanatic spec” with the surprisingly complicated stainless-steel case measuring 39mm throughout, 47.2mm lug-to-lug, and (by my measure) just below 12mm thick, excluding the cyclops. It’s an excellent normal attraction dimension, and the proportions and sculpted form of the case assist the watch really feel expansive and skinny with out taking on an excessive amount of footprint or requiring an costly ultra-thin motion. The watch ought to swimsuit most wrists with out an excessive amount of fuss.
The Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster III comes packaged with two straps, every in a shade of taupe-y beige. The first strap that comes on the watch is a superb calfskin quantity from DeLugs, with a barely pebbled end, cream stitching, and an engraved buckle. I’m an enormous fan of DeLugs straps, and it’s at all times a pleasure when a pattern watch comes with one geared up. I’m actually unsure why most manufacturers don’t outsource their straps, contemplating how typically first-party leather-based straps are horrible, however I digress.
The Rallymaster III additionally comes with a two-part elastic strap, additionally in beige, however this time in a darker tone. I’m not an enormous fan of elastic straps, however the one used right here is properly made, and very snug. I’m not in love with the colour, although. Whereas it’s comparatively unobjectionable, it appears somewhat soiled to my eye and does nothing for the watch from a coloration perspective that the far nicer DeLugs strap doesn’t already. Had I been within the room once they have been selecting strap colours, I may need steered a color-matched inexperienced, presumably with a pink stripe down the middle. Both manner, the strap is completely tremendous and a welcome addition.
At this level, I need to be very clear that I got here away from my time with the Rallymaster III completely satisfied by the watch. From a design perspective, Maurice de Mauriac knocked it out of the park, and as a restricted version (solely 100 of those will likely be made), it feels particular and distinctive, even amongst its Rallymaster siblings. However that doesn’t imply there weren’t one or two issues off with the watch, at the least with the instance I received.
The Rallymaster III makes use of a Landeron 24 motion, a preferred clone of the ETA 2824. It’s a tremendous alternative and a superbly good motion. Right here it has some ornament, with perlage on the plates and blued screws seen by a sapphire show caseback — although the view is barely obscured by the Racquet Journal brand (right here rendered in inexperienced with a pink tennis ball). The place the watch falls barely brief is in interacting with this motion. Particularly, discovering the assorted setting and winding positions will be considerably fiddly.
Shifting the crown into the primary setting place truly feels nice, with a strong optimistic lock into place and good audible suggestions, however navigating between the winding and date-set positions will be considerably obscure, and a number of other instances I discovered myself setting the watch, going to provide it a couple of extra winds earlier than screwing down the crown and by chance advancing the date. Additionally, whereas the crown stem itself feels strong, the connection between the crown and the crown stem feels somewhat tenuous, and there may be some clear play within the crown. Happily, the watch’s crown screws down, so this gained’t be a problem more often than not, however it’s one thing to concentrate on.
My different criticism comes with the crystal, or extra particularly, the cyclops. It’s within the flawed spot, solely barely, however noticeably. Relative to renders on Maurice de Mauriac’s website and different examples from this collection I’ve seen, the cyclops on my watch appears to be ever so barely up and to the left — it might even be ever-so-slightly crooked. If I needed to guess, the crystal was turned simply barely counterclockwise when it was connected to the watch, however that’s really simply conjecture. I don’t know if it is a normal manufacturing concern or a flaw with simply my specific instance, however it’s noticeable, at the least to my eye.
However even with these points, I discovered myself completely loving the Rallymaster III. Over the previous few years, Maurice de Mauriac has carried out a superb job of studying the room. They’ve positioned themselves on the intersection of design, tradition, and watchmaking, and the Rallymaster III is a superb reminder of that. All through my time with the watch, I simply discovered myself eager to have it on, and having fun with the way it made me really feel once I did. Actually, it’s uncommon for a watch to try this. In order I sit right here with the Rallymaster III on my wrist, a bag of racquets behind me, and an open night forward of me, I discover myself needing to ask a quite simple query: Anybody for tennis? Maurice de Mauriac
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