The Polerouter is, indubitably, probably the most emblematic watches ever created by Universal Genève. Not solely was it designed by younger Gérald Genta, nevertheless it was powered by an vital micro-rotor motion and was a purpose-built watch created by request of SAS, asking Common Genève to create a watch that might assist pilots flying over the North Pole for the primary time – which occurred precisely 70 years in the past, on November 15, 1954. Now, you’re actually conscious that, below the steering of Georges Kern (CEO of Breitling), along with non-public funding corporations Companions Group and CVC Capital Companions, Universal Genève will be back soon. However earlier than we see what the model has to supply (in 2026), right here’s a tribute to the Polerouter SAS Watches. Three trustworthy recreations with historic micro-rotor actions, every a singular piece, one in every of which will probably be auctioned… Are we seeing right here a draft for future fashions to come back? It will stay a query for now.
A fast recap concerning the Common Geneve Polerouter
Common Genève discovered its origins in 1894 as Common Watch, a Le Locle-based model, earlier than establishing store in Geneva in 1919. In 1936, it grew to become often called Common Genève, making a reputation for itself with its wide selection of chronographs. In 1954, nevertheless, a brand new assortment was offered, and it modified the corporate fairly drastically. Its title was the Polerouter (initially the Polarouter), a watch principally recognized for its magnificence, its two-tone texture dial (some with a traditional tuxedo impact) and fascinating options, equivalent to its resistance to shocks, magnetism, modifications in temperature and moisture. However why such capabilities for a watch that appeared to be delicate and formal?
The reply lies within the very origin of the Polerouter, a watch designed particularly for a mission, that of flying over the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, on the wrist of the pilots of the SAS. Certainly, on November 15, 1954, the Scandinavian Airways opened its first flight from the North of Europe to the West Coast of america, flying over the North Pole and lowering journey time between Copenhagen and Los Angeles, trimming 2,600 kilometres from the standard journey. The primary flight clocked at 22 hours, shaving no fewer than 14 hours off the standard flight path (the rationale was the affect of the magnetic pole on devices).
To enrich all the opposite purpose-built gear mandatory for this flight, the SAS requested Common Genève to create a watch that might assist pilots and survive these magnetic situations, but in addition match the mandatory magnificence you’d count on from a pilot within the Fifties. The design process was given to a then-young man often called Gérald Genta (23 years previous at the moment), who imagined this elegant and now recognizable design with twisted lugs, a tuxedo-like dial design surrounded by an engine-turned ring and a 35mm diameter.
The standout characteristic of the Polerouter was its three-dimensional impact, achieved by way of a two-part design that includes a pressure ring with hour markers fastened to the glass and a curved dial to safe the motion. The association, patented by Common Genève in 1953, was thought of a technical and visible achievement.
Inaugural references have been powered by the calibre 138SS, a bumper-style computerized motion. It was solely within the mid-Fifties that the Polerouter gained its different iconic ingredient, the micro-rotor engine that the majority of us now affiliate with this watch. Named Calibre 215, this skinny motion of 4.1mm in top positioned the rotor on the identical degree because the bridges as a substitute of above the motion. Along with Büren, Common Genève was one of the first watchmaking companies to extensively use this technical resolution.
Initially, 170 Polerouter have been produced – now extremely collectable – with most of those preliminary timepieces gifted to SAS pilots. By 1956, the Polerouter was its personal assortment and was offered below its Polerouter-only title, not linked solely with SAS.
Three Seventieth anniversary, distinctive Tribute Polerouter SAS Watches
As explained in this article, Universal Genève will be back in action soon “to revive the status of a hallowed title.” This title and renewed model will probably be marketed as “Le Couturier de la Montre” or the “watch tailor.” Behind it’s an acquisition by non-public funding corporations Companions Group and CVC Capital Companions, each behind Breilting. And with out shock, the CEO of Common Genève will probably be Georges Kern, who has been on the head of Breilting for the previous years.
Whereas we’re but to know extra concerning the model’s technique relating to the collections, watchmaking capacities and design of the longer term collections – these will probably be offered in 2026 – we now have one thing to whet our urge for food, a celebration of the Seventieth anniversary of the primary transpolar flight with three distinctive items, paying tribute to the origins of the Polerouter watch made for the SAS.
With these Common Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute fashions, we’re not wanting but at commercialised watches nor restored classic fashions. It sits someplace in-between, with three trendy recreations of unique Polerouter watches, constructed from scratch however utilizing classic micro-rotor calibre 1-69 from the Nineteen Sixties, which has been restored to former glory.
All three Polerouter SAS Tribute watches depend on a newly designed case that’s been deeply influenced by the unique Genta design, but modified to satisfy trendy requirements. Measuring 35mm in diameter, with a top of 9.95mm, these at the moment are geared up with a cambered sapphire crystal and a reworked stable caseback, along with a brand new crown with a double gasket to make sure an improved water-resistance of fifty metres. In fact, the traditional traces of the Polerouter watch, with its twisted lugs, light curves and flat bezel, have all been revered.
The dials of those Tribute Polerouter SAS are additionally visually trustworthy, however technically upgraded. As an example, the all-important rehauts (inside flange) are guilloched with the purpose of a diamond to attain nice depth and brilliance, contrasting with the satin-finished centre half.
As stated, we’re taking a look at a set of three distinctive items. The primary, which options each the brand new Common Genève brand and the historic and trendy SAS logos on the dial, depends on a deep blue color (SAS’ signature tone), and is housed in a white gold case. It’s worn on a moderately spectacular gold bracelet, which is modelled after Common Genève’s unique historic designs. It has been made by hand by Laurent Jolliet, a craftsman who’s the final chain-maker in Switzerland – reinforcing the thought of couture behind the brand new UG.
This particular white gold and blue piece will probably be auctioned off at Phillips in Affiliation with Bacs & Russo in Might of 2025, to profit CFP Arts in Geneva, which teaches utilized arts, guaranteeing crucial information of watchmaking savoir-faire exists for generations to come back.
The 2 different Tribute Polerouter SAS editions, once more distinctive items, are impressed by unique Polerouter designs. The primary, with a silver-toned dial, is made from stainless-steel (case, inside bezel, fingers and dial), with the Common Genève brand and the historic SAS brand in contrasting crimson gold – it feels the closest to the unique Fifties mannequin made for SAS. The opposite version is constructed from 18k crimson gold (case, inside bezel, and fingers) paired with a traditional tuxedo black dial. These two Tribute Polerouter timepieces will turn out to be a part of the Common Genève archives.
As stated, we’re not right here taking a look at watches that will probably be out there for most people – besides the one to be auctioned. What these three watches could possibly be are teasers for what to anticipate within the close to future. Possibly, classic actions apart, we’re wanting on the blueprints of the subsequent Polerouter that will probably be offered in 2026…? I don’t know, however taking a look at these, I one way or the other need that to be the reality.
Extra particulars at www.universalgeneve.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/news-universal-geneve-teases-2026-return-with-three-Seventieth-anniversary-polerouter-sas-tribute-watches-unique-pieces-micro-rotor/
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