It’s the final day of the 12 months, and as soon as once more we’re closing out December with our “Watch of the Yr” put up. We requested Worn & Wound employees and contributors to choose their favourite 2024 launch, and their picks, as all the time, reveal the large scope of the watch world.
Glad New Yr to everybody who has joined us in these pages all 12 months – we are able to’t wait to see what 2025 has in retailer. And naturally, remember to drop your personal favourite watch from 2024 within the feedback under.
Zach Kazan: H. Moser x Studio Underd0g “Ardour Fruit” Collaboration
I’ve spent numerous time over the previous few weeks trying again by articles I’ve written and the digicam roll on my iPhone anticipating what I’d write for my very own “Watch of the Yr” submission. I even have the luxurious of seeing what my colleagues and our contributors have picked for themselves, so I’m really awash in finish of 12 months watch stuff, as I think about most watch media sorts are proper about now. One factor has develop into abundantly clear as I’ve scrolled, learn, and thought in regards to the final twelve months in watches: it’s been a extremely nice 12 months.
A story emerged early on, even earlier than Watches & Wonders, that 2024 could be “sluggish” or “conservative” when it comes to new releases. To a degree, that proved to be right. Whereas there have been definitely some excellent watches launched by the likes of Tudor, Rolex, IWC, and different huge manufacturers this 12 months, they weren’t gamechangers or the watch equal of a pop tune which you could’t get out of your head. However there have been many watches on the margins, from small manufacturers (micro, if you’ll) and independents that really impressed me.
However merely being spectacular isn’t what I’m on the lookout for in a Watch of the Yr. To my thoughts, and I’m clearly simply making this up as I am going alongside, so bear with me, the Watch of the Yr ought to someway symbolize the 12 months. In a 12 months the place the mainstream took a backseat to fanatic centered and adventurous releases, the clear standout to me was one of the crucial controversial, ink spilling watches of the 12 months, one which pressured everybody to take a facet, producing memes, scorching takes, and diatribes in remark sections throughout the watch media spectrum.
No, I’m not speaking in regards to the Cubitus. I’m writing, after all, in regards to the H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Ardour Fruit,” which was unveiled at Geneva Watch Days amid a flurry of consideration alongside an identical chronograph from Studio Underd0g, which was solely accessible with the $60,000+ QP.
After I noticed these watches in particular person, I preferred them so much. The colours, the dial remedies – the entire subjective issues you might or could not like about design ahead watches like these occurred to work for me. However what I preferred much more was the idea behind it. Each Moser and Studio Underd0g took a good bit of criticism (principally from afar, from individuals who had not truly seen the watches) for collaborating on this method. Some Moser followers predictably expressed that aligning with a micro cheapens the model. And a few Studio Underd0g supporters complained – loudly – that making a watch that may solely be bought by the extremely wealthy goes towards the entire model’s ideas. I used to be torched within the feedback of an editorial I wrote critiquing this point of view earlier this summer. I stand by each phrase.
That is the Watch of the Yr (name it the “launch of the 12 months” I assume) as a result of in a 12 months when unbiased manufacturers have been capable of take heart stage, Studio Underd0g and Moser confirmed that creativity and pushing up towards the established order exists at each worth level, and that the excessive finish and the low are inextricably linked in methods they’ve by no means been earlier than. For me, these watches essentially align with what we’re attempting to do at Worn & Wound in a method that no different watch did this 12 months, which is to point out that enthusiasm and a ardour for watches is agnostic of worth, and that when artistic individuals are introduced collectively, cool issues are inclined to occur.
Zach Weiss: Grand Seiko SLGW003
For me, the watch of the 12 months was the Grand Seiko SLGW003. Whereas my favourite GS of the 12 months was the SLGW005, the 003 paves the best way for a brand new breed of GS that defines what their fashionable watches ought to be. Whereas the 9SA4 motion is a major power-house of a motion (and maybe the motion of the 12 months), it’s actually the case that made this particular reference the winner. Although a part of the Evolution 9 line, the title of which clearly signifies its forward-thinking idea, the case of the 003 was an evolution on the Evolution. 38.6mm in diameter, below 10mm thick, and with 20mm lugs, it’s merely the best-wearing GS I’ve tried on, taking the extra aggressive strains of the E9 collection however perfecting the proportions.
Whereas the 003’s combo of 9SA4 caliber, sensible laborious titanium, and birch dial made for an awesome launch piece, I’m curious to see future iterations. Dials, colours, metal, and so forth… And for the reason that thickness doubtless depends upon a guide motion, I wouldn’t be shocked in the event that they put the 9R31 spring drive in a future mannequin, which might be killer. In the event that they broaden on this case as they’ve with others, 2025 is likely to be a really thrilling 12 months for us GS followers.
Kat Shoulders: Fears Brunswick Soar Brunswick 40.5 Soar Hour
When Fears introduced in September of this 12 months that they have been launching new Brunswick 40.5 Soar Hours, I don’t assume there was as a lot buzz as there had been with beforehand issued Alliance 01, a watch that was solely accessible solely to members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. A fast reminder that the Alliance 01 additionally was the primary time we noticed Christopher Ward collaborate with Fears and put their customized motion inside. To many, the brand new launch appeared like a mere dial coloration refresh. I personally was leaping (no pun supposed) out of my chair. Not simply because the brand new dial choices have been gorgeous however extra importantly, as a result of these have been now a part of the Fears Brunswick assortment and not a restricted version.
The largest change outdoors of the brand new dial choices is the brand new utilized minute observe, which for my part provides a pleasant depth to the dial. It’s no secret I’m an enormous fan of what Fears is doing and I used to be so in love with the Alliance 01 however sadly missed out on the restricted version. So this watch launch was like an early Christmas present to me. A lot in order that I’m at present working with the Fears crew by myself customized dial Soar Hour that’s going to pay homage to my late father (extra on that to come back). Don’t sleep on what Fears is doing and I hope we see extra collaborations subsequent 12 months!
Marc Levesque: Micromilspec Milgraph
In October of this 12 months, I used to be assigned to jot down a Fast Launch piece a couple of watch from a comparatively new model known as Micromilspec. As a watch author, each every now and then, I get a chance to jot down a couple of timepiece that really excites me, and this was a kind of events. Coincidentally, I used to be lucky sufficient to spend some hands-on time with this particular watch the month prior, so developing with 500+ phrases was a cinch. After all, I’m speaking in regards to the tremendous superior Milgraph Chronograph GMT.
Many watch manufacturers declare to have relationships with the world’s militaries—particular forces this, Navy Seals that—however Micromilspec is the actual deal. On their web site, they’ve a listing of 40+ detailed initiatives they’ve been concerned in, starting from the U.S. House Pressure to the French Particular Forces and lots of nations in between. So, they don’t simply discuss the discuss; they stroll the stroll, or reasonably tick the discuss? I don’t know, however you get what I imply. These guys imply enterprise.
And that’s what this watch is all about. It’s purpose-built out of Grade 5 titanium, my absolute favoritest (I do know that’s not a phrase) grade for its scratch resistance. The crown and pushers are positioned on the left facet, making them straightforward to function utilizing your proper thumb must you be holding a firearm. The bezel could seem slick, however there are cut-outs that present grip, even with gloves on. The dial is excessive distinction for at-a-glance readability, and despite the fact that I’m a bracelet man by and thru, I believe I might stay with this one on its rubber strap.
My favourite facet of this watch is its originality. In immediately’s world of spinoff design, particularly within the military-inspired watch area, this one stands out for all the appropriate causes. It additionally combines two of my most well-liked problems: chronograph and GMT, and it does so with out a date window! Critically, how cool is that? The very best half is that I’ve met the super-cool Norwegian dudes behind the model, making this watch much more particular in my ebook.
Meg Tocci: Nomos Tangente 38 Date
Throughout their huge debut at Watches & Wonders this 12 months, Nomos launched their widespread Tangente 38 Date in thirty-one totally different colours to have fun 175 years of watchmaking in Glashutte, Germany. Nomos has lengthy been recognized for his or her minimalist designs, and this 12 months’s launch continues the model’s dedication to considerate, inclusive aesthetics paired with excellent in-house actions.
The previous few years have prompt a shift away from the outsized choices of the early aughts. This Nomos launch is emblematic of the zeitgeist of a brand new decade – one which encourages inclusivity and numerous expression. Furthermore, it highlights the model’s dedication to deliberately centering coloration as a crucial element of their items. Whereas some manufacturers are recognized for his or her coloration choices (Doxa springs to thoughts right here), only a few have woven coloration into their design language fairly the best way Nomos has.
Every a part of the watch – the dial, subdial, minute observe and date window – ranges in varied combos of two to 5 colours. The 38mm diameter makes this watch wearable throughout the board. Nomos additionally priced the a hundred and seventy fifth Anniversary releases a little bit decrease than their customary Tangente 38, rising the accessibility of this widespread timepiece. This actually was a launch for anybody who loves the historical past of German watchmaking as a lot as they love a pop of coloration on the wrist.
This 12 months noticed vital strides in illustration, with many manufacturers deliberately transferring into the realm of 36-38mm sizing to higher accommodate a wider vary of wrists and private preferences. This shift displays a broader development towards extra accessible, versatile timepieces that attraction to each women and men and permit for larger self-expression in a single’s fashion. The Nomos Tangente a hundred and seventy fifth Anniversary launch embraces these values, demonstrating that the trendy tastes of immediately’s watch neighborhood could be built-in with a deep respect for each heritage and historical past.
Christoph McNeill: Grand Seiko SLGW003
My alternative for Watch of the Yr this 12 months is a simple one for me – I’m following Zach W’s lead and choosing the Grand Seiko SLGW003 from their Evolution 9 Assortment. If you happen to’ve learn something I’ve written up to now, you’ll know that I’m an authorized Seiko junkie. I received’t bore you with why the Seiko and Grand Seiko manufacturers are particular, if you happen to’re right here that it is best to already know. However the Grand Seiko SLGW003 actually is a particular piece, and stands out even amongst different Grand Seikos. Now, I might’ve simply picked the completely bonkers Grand Seiko Kodo Tourbillon, however that watch is from one other world, and to be sincere I (enormously) choose the candy simplicity of the SLGW003.
Impressed by the basic classic 44GS watch, this mannequin has a fantastically designed case that includes flat planes, sharp edges and a mix of brushed and polished finishes in tune with the well-known Seiko Grammar of Design aesthetic. The 38.6mm broad case is product of “Good Laborious Titanium”, though to be sincere I might undoubtedly choose it in stainless-steel, which has a extra strong heft to it. Though if you need heft, there’s the SLGW002 in strong rose gold, however that’s restricted to 80 items and is priced at a whopping $45,000. This titanium mannequin is rather more attainable at about $10,000.
The dial is a spin on the model’s “Birch” theme, seen right here in a superb white coloration with a stunning birch bark texture. It after all has all the small print you’d count on on a Grand Seiko, utilized faceted markers, faceted dauphine arms, and a blued metal seconds hand. There isn’t any date window (#nodateisthebestdate), simply the GS emblem and title and minimal verbiage on the underside half of the dial to present the watch a serene, symmetrical look that’s…..lovely.
All that is properly and good, however the actual hero of the SLGW003 is the magnificent, newly designed guide wind high-beat caliber 9SA4 motion. The motion is Seiko’s first high-beat guide wind motion in over 50 years, and is a murals. It beats at 10 occasions per second, or 36,000 occasions per hour, offering a buttery clean second hand movement that may be a sight to behold. With an influence reserve of 80 hours and adjusted to 6 positions at three totally different temperatures, the watch is listed as being correct to +5/-3 seconds per day. It is usually fantastically completed, as you’ll count on.
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