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Colorado’s Best Kept Secret: The 5280 Watch Company is Making Timepieces with Enamel Dials for Under $4,000


Over the course of his greater than 40-year profession, Brinker largely labored as an expert jeweler, however in the end, the job obtained a bit repetitive, and he might see he would possibly lose curiosity. Round that point, he met a gem setter named Lew Wackler who was enthusiastic about Faberge work—little did he know on this second how the celebrities would finally align and lead him to Keel and 5280.

Wackler and Brinker bonded over the identical lack of inspiration of their jewellery work and a shared need to develop their inventive capabilities. Their authentic ardour venture was to design a pair of mantle clocks within the Faberge type— “however we by no means made these clocks,” Brinker admits. “We made all types of different stuff as a substitute—we have been simply on a technical journey largely centered round that look and depth you possibly can solely get with guilloche.” 

“We had a bunch of little silver discs in regards to the measurement of a watch dial,” he continues, “and we’d experiment with the engine turning equipment we’d purchased and the enameling methods I knew. We in the end made a pair dozen fairly respectable guilloche enameled discs with a wide range of engraved patterns, and we took them with us to the Tucson Gem Present. We set them out together with the gems Lew had on the market, they usually caught the attention of a person named Andreas von Zadora-Gerlof, a prolific artist referred to as America’s Faberge. He ended up hiring us for some commissions, and as soon as we have been within the door, we turned a part of this unbelievable secure of specialists.” 

Brinker’s work with Zadora continued from the mid-90s to the late 2000s, however after the 2008 monetary disaster, work started to fizzle, and he returned again to the Midwest and again to his jewellery roots. Right here, we labored by way of the following couple a long time earlier than Keel approached him in 2023 together with his idea for 5280. 

“A mutual pal linked me with Invoice,” remembers Keel, “We had dinner, and I informed him what I wished to do with 5280. At first, he was very skeptical,” Keel admits. “Enamel doesn’t play properly, and once you mix it with guilloche, it will get much more difficult. It was a danger to middle our complete design philosophy round this artform, however Invoice was in the end prepared to take that danger with me, and it’s paid off.” 

Every 5280 dial takes greater than 25 hours of meticulous work on the hand of Brinker to finish. As well as, the model’s location within the Mile Excessive Metropolis presents inherent challenges that affect bake time within the kiln because of the altitude and lack of humidity. But, the larger limitation of executing these methods—much more so than painstaking guilloche and enamel work itself—is the scarcity of supplies. 

“There’s undoubtedly a shortage of supplies,” confirms Keel. “Among the colours we use are now not made—they haven’t been made in 30 years—there’s no extra on the planet apart from what we’ve procured and what exists in just a few different workshops like ours. Take our Aoki 105B Purple, for instance,” he explains. “This coloration is now not made, and it’s extremely temperamental. We fired one dial, and it got here out shiny fuchsia, however we knew it was imagined to be purple, not scorching pink. So, it took us some time to determine the precise course of to deliver out the deep orangey purple we wished to see in our last product—seems, it’s actually the distinction of some seconds within the kiln.”

Along with the distinctive Aoki 105B Purple, 5280 at the moment affords a variety of 13 completely breathtaking dial colours in a wide range of guilloche patterns. Each dial substrate is a base composed of .999 superb silver. The ultimate vitreous enamel dial is protected by sapphire crystals on either side and housed in a strong 316L stainless-steel case. Every timepiece is solely powered by top-of-the-line Swiss Sellita actions assembly COSC Licensed Accuracy requirements and custom-designed industry-best D4 ending. These unbelievable, custom-made timepieces can be found for pre-order and priced from $3495 to $3995 every—a literal steal for this degree of artistry. 5280

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