We regularly hear statements like, “This watch is a real basic,” or “It is a timeless design.” Usually, such statements seek advice from massive names within the watch business, comparable to Rolex and the Submariner, Omega and the Speedmaster, or Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak. That’s both as a result of their designs are easy and certainly timeless or as a result of they have been novel and odd after they first got here out. What all of them have in widespread is that they age nicely like a basic automotive, a well-tailored go well with, and pair of sun shades. However with these phrases, we typically seek advice from the complete product, not simply the design. It’s a bundle — the model, the supplies, and the wrist of the star who wore it finest. The 1945 Soiled Dozen watches have been additionally particularly designed across the idea of dependable performance.
The extremely legibility at any given second is made attainable by tightly codified design components — the big arms, the Arabic numerals, the monochromatic shade scheme, and the small seconds at 6 o’clock. Sure, the Soiled Dozen watches have been additionally sturdy, outfitted with hacking actions and shockproof acrylic crystals. However after we suppose “Soiled Dozen,” we principally take into consideration the dial (not less than I do). If I say “Reverso,” you’ll take into consideration the case that flips sideways. If I say “Speedmaster,” you’ll consider the simple three-register chronograph structure. Proper? So the dial of the Soiled Dozen watches is so iconic that manufacturers maintain revisiting it, which is the subject of this text.
Takes on the Soiled Dozen watches by micro/indie manufacturers
I solely write about micro/indie manufacturers, which is why at present’s choice comes from that area of interest of the horological market. We’ve got three US-based manufacturers (Tuul, Vaer, and Praesidus), one from Singapore (Vario), one from Japan (Kuoe), and one from South Africa (Draken). I selected to focus on these six manufacturers as a result of I’ve gone hands-on with their watches. There are extra that make Soiled Dozen-inspired fashions, and two of the OGs — Timor and Vertex — nonetheless make them. All six manufacturers I’ll spotlight at present provide totally different experiences that include totally different value tags. However none transcend the stress-inducing US$1,000 value restrict. I ordered the manufacturers/fashions from probably the most reasonably priced to the least reasonably priced to maintain issues easy. Lastly, I listed costs in US {dollars} for consistency’s sake. Let’s go!
Vaer C3 Soiled Dozen — $254
Vaer makes a number of fashions primarily based on the Soiled Dozen watches, with both quartz or automated actions and 36mm or 40mm diameters. I dealt with the 36mm quartz model, which is, by the way, probably the most reasonably priced watch. For $254, you get a US-built Ameriquartz caliber with a 40-month battery life and an accuracy of -10/+20 seconds per 30 days, a single-domed sapphire crystal, 15 layers of Tremendous-LumiNova BGW9 on the arms and hour markers, a 100m water resistance score, a screw-down crown, and a screw-in case again. The case is all brushed and easy to the contact, and the crown is straightforward to function. The design particularity of the Vaer Soiled Dozen is the big syringe-style handset. The whole lot else is basic Soiled Dozen design, together with the railroad minute monitor, giant Arabic numerals, and the sub-seconds register (I gained’t repeat that half for the opposite watches). This Vaer C3 Soiled Dozen can also be the one battery-powered choice at present.
Dimensions: 36mm diameter, 43mm lug-to-lug size, 9.4mm thickness, and 20mm lug spacing.
Vario 1945 D12 — $368
The Vario 1945 D12 was probably the most reasonably priced rendition of the Soiled Dozen watches I knew of. That isn’t the case anymore, however it stays probably the most enjoyable of the entire bunch to me. I just like the outsized crown, the black-on-black recessed brand, the polished accents, and the raised central part of the sub-seconds register. All of this endows the Vario 1945 D12 with a light-hearted character I actually recognize. It’s additionally a well-built and well-specced choice. It presents a 3Hz Miyota 82S5 caliber with 42 hours of energy reserve, an ample quantity of BGW9 and C3 lume, a sapphire crystal, a 100m water resistance score, a screw-down crown, and a screw-in case again. Having the emblem so refined makes the Vario probably the most simple of all six fashions offered right here. And if you happen to don’t like black, the 1945 D12 additionally is available in beige, grey, and inexperienced.
Dimensions: 37mm diameter, 45mm lug-to-lug size, 10.5mm thickness, and 18mm lug spacing.
Draken Aoraki Milspec — $399
Draken has cast a reputation for itself for making ultra-solid and well-priced device watches. The design of the Aoraki Milspec is the least standard of the six right here at present, however it deserves to be listed. It’s a cross between the Soiled Dozen watches and the A-11 I gushed over some time again. From the latter, it will get the sans-serif typeface for the Arabic numerals, a pure monochromatic shade scheme, and a simplified minute monitor. However every part else is Soiled Dozen. Spec-wise, we discover the identical Miyota 82S5 as within the Vario 1945 D12, together with safety towards magnetism (as much as 20,000 A/m) through a tender iron cage, a flat sapphire crystal, a 100m depth score, a screw-down crown, a screw-in case again, and insane lume. This lume has a barely aged tint however doesn’t lean towards fauxtina. Draken presents the Aoraki with 4 much less “Soiled Dozen-y” dial layouts.
Dimensions: 39mm diameter, 46.5mm lug-to-lug size, 12.35mm thickness, and 20mm lug spacing.
Kuoe Previous Smith 90-009 — $566
Whereas the Vario is probably the most enjoyable, the Kuoe Old Smith 90-009 is probably the most elegant of all six because of its measurement, ending, and case-to-crown ratio. A set of large and brushed sword arms fly over the finest-textured matte dial. The totally polished case does make this mannequin seem fancier than it ought to, particularly when trying on the small crown (I discover small crowns elegant!). There may be additionally an attention-grabbing hands-to-markers-to-dial ratio right here because the printed Arabic numerals are fairly giant in comparison with the dial. These components create an attention-grabbing distinction with the normal Soiled Dozen structure of the dial. Spec-wise, we as soon as once more discover the Miyota 82S5 however a domed sapphire crystal, good (unspecified) lume, a 50m water resistance score, a push/pull crown, and a screw-in case again.
Dimensions: 35mm diameter, 42mm lug-to-lug size, 12mm thickness, and 18mm lug spacing.
Praesidus DD-45 — $875
The Praesidus DD-45 is an oddball as it’s the model’s costliest mannequin to this point (by a large margin). It’s so as a result of Praesidus upped its recreation for this one, first with the design, which is probably the most fashionable of all six variations (to me, that’s). The printed Arabic numerals are somewhat small however proportioned properly with the arms, including helpful detrimental area. This highlights the finely textured dial, totally brushed arms, and a color-matched minute monitor. The Tropical model I dealt with felt particular too, a bit extremely classic however in a great way. Spec-wise, the Praesidus offers you tons on your hard-earned money. It has a 4Hz Landeron L24 6UHR caliber with a 40-hour energy reserve, a double-domed sapphire crystal, raised hour markers, wonderful polished accents, a 100m depth score, a screw-down crown, and a screw-in case-back. If Tropical is just not your factor, the Praesidus DD-45 is available in Manufacturing unit Recent and Patina variations.
Dimensions: 38mm diameter, 45mm lug-to-lug size, 11.8mm thickness, and 20mm lug spacing.
Tuul Filthy 13 — $899
Final however not least, let’s discuss concerning the Tuul Filfthy 13 that Balazs reviewed in July. It’s the costliest of all six fashions and the one which’s the closest to the Timor Heritage Field WWW (one of many two OG manufacturers.) And whereas a watch’s value doesn’t at all times equal its awesomeness, the Filthy 13 presents one thing attention-grabbing. It’s the one that appears probably the most genuine regardless of being the most recent within the recreation. It borrows the precise design codes of the unique Soiled Dozen watches and, due to this fact, appears fashionable classic (it’s a factor; consider me). The model acquired the proportions, design, and specs proper, making the Filthy 13 a worthy 2024 various to the unique Soiled Dozen. Certainly, we discover a 4Hz Sellita SW261-1 caliber with a 41-hour energy reserve, a sapphire crystal, nice lume, a 100m water resistance score, a screw-down crown, and a screw-in case again.
Dimensions: 38mm diameter, 46mm lug-to-lug size, 11.25mm thickness, and 20mm lug spacing.
Conclusion
Earlier than writing this text, I assumed that value and specs have been the principle components differentiating one mannequin from one other. Nevertheless, in actuality, the design does that. And what makes one mannequin costlier than one other is the ending, not essentially simply the motion, the crystal, or the quantity of lume. Add a number of polished accents and a finely textured dial, and the value goes up. Add a Swiss motion and finely printed hour markers and brand, and the value goes up. Evaluating all six fashions was an attention-grabbing expertise for me. I’m amazed at how the tiniest of design and technical particulars could make such a distinction.
After all, I really like device watches and the Soiled Dozen. And I like every of those six fashions for what it brings to the desk. I do have a few favorites within the Draken and Vario, and I’d be curious as to which one you favor and why. Do you might have a Soiled Dozen-like watch in your assortment? If not, which one of many six listed right here would you think about including? Let me know within the feedback!
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