It’s Sunday morning, which implies it’s time for a espresso and one other installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we selected two newer variations of watches that we pitted in opposition to one another again in 2022 and 2023. The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT got here out final yr and is the smaller and slimmer model of the Black Bay GMT. As such, it’s our favourite over its 41mm counterpart. As we speak, it takes on the 39mm model of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time, the model’s widespread journey watch. Particularly, we picked the titanium mannequin, which is nearer in worth to the Black Bay 58 GMT and provides the carrying consolation of a light-weight watch. Let’s discover out which of those two comes out on high.
The current introduction of the two-tone Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 sparked the concept for this matchup. With Henry Cavill because the face of this launch, it was good to see a brand new addition to the Zulu Time lineup. However as a substitute of placing that one up in opposition to the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that Mike picked, Jorg picked the 39mm titanium model. At €4,500, it’s near the Tudor, which prices €4,880. For the cash, the light-weight titanium materials might be thought of a bonus. However let’s discover out if that assumption is true by permitting you, the Fratelli, to have the ultimate say in right now’s matchup.
Beforehand, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Final week, in a battle of purple-dial daily wearers, the Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 took 59% of the votes for a assured win over the 36mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual, with simply 41%. Whereas the overall end result is maybe not so shocking, the comfy 19% margin of victory is. The feedback gave a extra balanced impression, however the numbers don’t lie. They clearly confirmed a win for the charming manual-winding Kiri. With that settled, it’s over to Mike and Jorg to make their arguments this week.
Jorg: Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium
I anticipate my contender to be the underdog on this week’s showdown. Having stated that, within the two earlier instances we put the 41mm Spirit Zulu Time up in opposition to the Black Bay GMT, the Longines beat the Tudor comfortably. So who is aware of? Perhaps it might win a 3rd time. However this can be a completely different matchup than the earlier ones. The Black Bay 58 GMT is the smaller and slimmer model of the Black Bay GMT, and it has a METAS-certified motion as well.
It’s a tempting providing from Tudor that I like fairly a bit. Nonetheless, it’s not the Tudor journey look ahead to me. As a few of , the Black Bay Professional is my favourite Tudor GMT, and I nonetheless hope the model will replace that watch with a slimmer case and the upgraded motion. Till then, I’ll carry the battle flag for the 39mm Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium.
Ever because the Longines Spirit Zulu Time got here out, I’ve been a fan of the watch. After my preliminary pleasure for the 42mm debut mannequin, the 39mm model launched a yr later hit the candy spot for me. I first most popular the black-dial model with the inexperienced ceramic bezel insert and gold-tone particulars. That watch has a sure allure that I drastically take pleasure in. Just lately, Longines added an identical mannequin to its assortment that swaps the inexperienced bezel insert for a blue one. The result’s one other great-looking watch.
The Spirit Zulu Time Titanium is the one for me
The one mannequin we noticed broadly launched a few weeks in the past, with actor Henry Cavill as the brand new face, is the two-tone Spirit Zulu Time 1925 with a rose-gold-capped bezel insert. At first, I wasn’t the largest fan, however the aesthetic began rising on me slowly. However might this “Cavillian” model of the Spirit Zulu Time deliver me the win? At €1,000 greater than the common metal one, I had my doubts.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Restricted Version for Hodinkee — Picture: Hodinkee
It bought me fascinated by which one to choose for right now’s matchup. That’s after I was reminded of the titanium variations of the Spirit Zulu Time. It began with the sold-out restricted version that Longines launched in collaboration with Hodinkee. With its strong titanium bezel, the aesthetic is extra consistent with the Black Bay Professional (you’ll perceive why I prefer it a lot), but it surely additionally reveals the nice potential of a titanium Spirit Zulu Time.
The nice consolation of a light-weight journey watch
It didn’t take Longines lengthy to comply with that up with an everyday titanium model of the watch. The best way the model did it was moderately intelligent and made it my favourite of the collection. First, the watch includes a 39mm Grade 5 titanium case with a 13.5mm thickness, a 47mm lug-to-lug, and a 100m water resistance score. It’s 0.7mm thicker than Mike’s Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, however at 0.8mm shorter from tip to tip, the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium is a really comfy watch to put on.
I significantly just like the titanium’s barely darker, trendy hue in comparison with chrome steel. On high of that, the Longines designers created a bezel insert that properly matches the anthracite dial. At first look, it simply seems to be like a black ceramic insert. However the little visible trick they utilized is a cut up end, so the nighttime portion is shiny black, and the daytime portion is matte grey. It seems to be refined and refined, and I really like that.
Dialing down the classic cues of the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium
I additionally admire that Longines used fewer gilt particulars on this model. My favourite chrome steel Zulu Time with the inexperienced bezel sports activities far heavier vintage-inspired seems to be. You possibly can see that the titanium model’s dial nonetheless has them, however making the numerals on the bezel white was a fantastic alternative. With the little crimson accents of the 24-hour GMT hand and the “Zulu Time” textual content, the design is engaging and balanced moderately than excessive.
The caliber inside continues to be the L844.4 we all know from the metal fashions. This computerized flyer-style GMT motion operates at 25,200vph and gives 72 hours of energy reserve. Moreover, it’s a licensed chronometer, leading to an accuracy of between +6 and -4 seconds per day. Whereas not on par with the Black Bay 58 GMT’s MT5450-U motion, the L844.4 would certainly do the job completely for me.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium — the clear winner in my guide
In addition to this watch’s good-looking seems to be, the largest enchantment of the Spirit Zulu Time is using light-weight titanium. The mix of the refined, nearly understated look with the refined however intelligent particulars and nice consolation makes this the winner for me in right now’s matchup. Moreover, it gives a fantastic different to the usual GMT aesthetic, which can also be praiseworthy.
Add the €4,500 retail worth, which continues to be decrease than the €4,830 worth of the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, and I do know what my choose might be each time. After the preliminary buzz surrounding the discharge of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time, it turned considerably quiet. With the discharge of the Spirit Zulu Time 1925 and this 39mm titanium version, Longines reminds us of the brilliance of this collection. I hope additionally it is sufficient so that you can give the Spirit Zulu Time its third win over a Tudor Black Bay GMT mannequin. However first, it’s over to Mike.
Mike: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
The truth that Longines now recurrently competes with Tudor is telling. This Swatch Group model has drastically upped its recreation over the previous a number of years with compelling new releases. The Spirit Zulu Time might be the perfect instance of this renaissance, and it deserves all of the kudos it receives. Tudor, however, had a comparatively free run of the mid-tier market earlier than Longines determined to get critical. Folks appear to like Tudor. There’s the simple Rolex hyperlink, the intense value-for-money proposition, and the handsome watches. Nonetheless, one bugaboo has been plaguing among the items — thickness.
When the unique Black Bay GMT got here out in 2018, the market went nuts! Many received’t recall that the watch was unobtainable for greater than a yr at ADs. As soon as the hype subsided, although, feedback about its slab-sided, chunky nature started surfacing. The 41mm watch has a 14.6mm profile and vertical flanks. It’s nonetheless in manufacturing in varied colorways, and it does fulfill of us with bigger wrists. Nonetheless, in 2024, Tudor lastly gave many individuals what they wished with the Black Bay 58 GMT — a 39mm chrome steel case with a mere 12.8mm thickness. Rejoice!
Loaded to the gills with specs
Just like the Zulu Time, the Black Bay 58 GMT carries a chronometer certification. The Tudor, although, has the extremely fascinating METAS model. It’s additionally a flyer-style GMT and makes use of the automated Kenissi MT5450-U with a powerful 65 hours of energy reserve. It additionally has a frequency of 28,800vph, a slight improve over Longines’s ramped-down caliber. Plus, a 200m depth score makes it greater than able to dive.
A gorgeous shade alternative
The Black Bay is impressed by classic Rolex GMT-Grasp fashions. Its crimson and black rotating bezel is a lifeless giveaway. The black dial options luminous indexes with gold-tone surrounds. It’s engaging, and whereas many would love a extra trendy Pepsi model with silver particulars, this unfastened tackle a “Coke” GMT-Grasp is an eye-catcher.
An amazing bracelet
Whereas the Zulu Time makes do with a push-button-style clasp on its bracelet, the Tudor has a extra critical T-fit clasp with a security catch (that is additionally on the elective rubber strap mannequin). Toolless micro-adjustment can also be a part of the bundle. I fully perceive if the fake rivets are a turn-off, however dismissing the bracelet altogether means lacking out on a splendidly comfy accompaniment to an already nice watch. With Tudor, I believe the bracelets are 95% pretty much as good as a Rolex equal, which implies they’re already higher than nearly all of the competitors. Right here, Longines has made enhancements, but it surely’s nonetheless less than snuff with the Black Bay 58 GMT.
A phrase about titanium versus chrome steel
It’s not the worst argument that the Zulu Time represents a pleasant deal at a slight low cost to the Black Bay 58 GMT due to the case materials. The previous is titanium, and the latter is chrome steel. Nonetheless, the democratization of titanium means it’s now accessible in any respect costs. Plus, and it’s admittedly odd, I don’t suppose that titanium is all the time an enduring materials. I really feel it lacks the heat of metal, and I discover myself switching to one thing heavier after a brief interval. Your mileage could range.
It’s time to vote
As Jorg talked about, Longines has come out the victor in opposition to Tudor in earlier battles. Nonetheless, the slimmer, comfier Black Bay 58 GMT is now within the ring and able to contend. I believe it’s the extra classic-looking watch that might sit on my wrist extra usually. Then once more, I personal a non-GMT Black Bay 58 and am used to the match. So, what do you suppose? Solid your vote, and tell us why you selected the way in which you probably did within the feedback part.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium vs. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
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