The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P was a shock at Watches and Wonders 2025. It’s been a very long time for the reason that model launched a clear, easy watch at a giant annual present like this, and it was welcome. Right now, we’ll take a more in-depth have a look at this gem.
For Patek Philippe, 2024 was the 12 months of double denim, and I need to say it was forgettable. I’ve grown to like this model from a classic standpoint, and I do know it may well produce some unimaginable watches. Nonetheless, the final decade has been fraught with overdone items, jeweled monstrosities, or (recently) sq. goofiness. Lastly, Patek brings one thing stunning in a means that solely the esteemed watchmaker can handle. The Calatrava 6196P is a return to a watch that I’d take into account shopping for. Lastly…
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
On the face of it, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the best costume watch of all time. It’s the customary, and we will combat about it, however you’ll lose. References just like the 96 and 570 are nonetheless so good that different manufacturers unsuccessfully proceed attempting to reinvent the wheel as a substitute of shamelessly copying. Weirdly, although, Patek has determined to throw the infant out with the bathwater for the reason that demise of the 5196. The corporate has been on a bizarre kind of quest to create bigger and extra ornate Calatravas. This 12 months, it was as if an imaginary tack hammer thwacked the corporate heads and jolted them into making a timeless nice. The Calatrava 6196P is the results of this awakening, and dammit, it’s good.
With a 38mm diameter, the platinum Calatrava 6196P nonetheless isn’t as small as I’d prefer it to be, however it’s getting there. To match, it’s 1mm bigger than the discontinued 5196, however 1mm smaller than the 6119. So, it’s clear that Patek isn’t able to go smaller like Lange with its wonderful 1815. We’ll survive, although. Relating to the depth score, that is most positively a land-ready costume watch with its 30m spec.
A stunning profile
The Calatrava 6196P is 9.33mm thick, together with the sapphire crystal. It cuts a slim determine and boasts pretty case ending, together with horizontal brushing on the edges. The acquainted signed crown faithfully sits at 3 o’clock. Admittedly, for a manual-winding watch, it’s small. From the facet, the lug profile doesn’t fairly decide to the stunning rounded type of the 570, however it’s nonetheless stunning. The downward curve is noticeable and stylish.
The polished bezel, then again, is a compromise. See the “coin-edge” bezel above on the 570. I feel it’s a miss that Patek went with a downward-sloping bezel on the 6196P as a substitute of the right-angle design from generations previous. Nonetheless, the 6196P is a reasonably watch.
A basic dial with a contemporary twist
Patek opted for classically styled utilized hour markers on the Calatrava 6196P. This model of indexes and spherical diamond-drilled minute markers have been used for nearly 100 years. The dauphine fingers are additionally basic. If every thing sounds conventional, the curveball is available in with anthracite-colored {hardware}. I’m nonetheless undecided if that is higher than polished indexes, however I suppose it brings a contemporary look to a extremely conventional visage. When mixed with the rose opaline dial, although, it’s a reasonably image.
The 30‑255 PS inside
Fortunately, the Calatrava 6196P has a hand-wound motion. The 30-255 PS is a contemporary gem with a frequency of 28,800vph and 65 hours of energy reserve. The motion is seen by way of a sapphire show again and exhibits off Côtes de Genève ending and plentiful anglage. Is the motion as stunning as older Patek calibers with their fantastic bridges? No, however it’s good so far as trendy calibers go. Additionally, when in comparison with the previous 5196, a minimum of it suits the case.
The strap and buckle are pretty touches
Some could decry the dearth of an overwrought folding buckle, however I’m happy that Patek caught with a platinum pin buckle and brown alligator strap for the Calatrava 6196P. For a easy costume watch, there’s no must tart issues up with a great deal of metallic.
Following the custom of platinum Patek references since 1999, the model determined so as to add a small diamond on the mid-case. It sits between the lugs on the 6 o’clock facet. Is that this one thing I’d pay for as an choice? Under no circumstances, and I ponder how a lot it added to the value.
Horny on the wrist
It’s exhausting to make an aesthetic costume watch. First rate costume watches are plentiful, however actually nice ones are uncommon. The Calatrava 6196P continues to be a contact giant in my ebook, however it’s a critical looker. The dial has sufficient element to fill the actual property, and the case sits properly on the wrist. I additionally really feel that the dial colour is heading in the right direction. Plus, this watch can simply play in a proper setting but additionally appears to be like good in opposition to denim. It’s a winner.
Last ideas on the Calatrava 6196P
If it appears like I’ve been robust on the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, it’s as a result of I need the model to make gloriously stunning and easy costume watches once more. This watch is so rattling shut, and it in all probability is ideal for somebody with a bigger wrist. For me, although, I’d wish to see it a millimeter or two smaller and with a bigger crown. Then once more, I’d fortunately put on certainly one of these with out remorse. At €46,800, although, this watch is a really expensive enterprise. Then once more, it’s a Patek Philippe and sure a future basic.
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