One other Sunday, one other showdown! This week, we’ll dive headfirst into the world of luxurious dive watches, and two examples with legendary lineage will go face to face. The primary is the most recent iteration of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, a watch that finds its roots within the late Nineteen Sixties because the skilled brother of the Submariner. The second is the brand-new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV. The origins of the Fifty Fathoms return to the early Fifties when Blancpain launched the primary model of this iconic dive watch. However this battle shouldn’t be concerning the glory of the previous. It’s all about which watch can take the crown now as a contemporary luxurious diver.
As we speak’s battle is a humorous one. Each Blancpain and Rolex are correct luxurious watch manufacturers that take nice delight in creating critical dive watches. However, there’s a distinction in notion amongst a wider viewers. It’s protected to say that the Sea-Dweller is a luxurious watch first and a diver second. With the Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV, Blancpain created a super-capable trendy diver first and a luxurious watch second. This notion will undoubtedly play an element in in the present day’s battle. The largest elephant within the room is likely to be the value distinction, although. The Rolex Sea-Dweller is available in at €13,900, whereas Blancpain asks a hefty sum of €23,250 for the Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV.
Final week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Earlier than Mike and Jorg kick off this week’s battle, let’s shortly have a look at final week’s outcomes. In last week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, the brand new King Seiko Vanac took the win over the Toledano & Chan B/1 by the slightest margin. The King Seiko obtained 51% of your votes versus 49% for the Toledano & Chan. Studying the feedback clearly confirmed that fairly a number of of you wouldn’t need both. For many who did have a favourite, although, the Toledano & Chan gave the impression to be the winner. Effectively, in the long run, the numbers don’t lie, and so they present that the brand new Vanac took final week’s victory. Let’s see what this week has in retailer. Over to Mike and Jorg!
Jorg: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV
I’ve the thankless job of opening this week’s battle with a watch that may be a entire €9,350 dearer than its opponent. Do I believe that’s a handicap? You wager! For a lot of, choosing an choice near half the value is clear, particularly if the extra inexpensive choice is a Rolex. However the wonderful thing about this collection is that we’re spending imaginary cash, so something can occur. In fact, that begs the query of whether or not I’d genuinely choose the Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV over the Sea-Dweller, particularly because the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 is the one Rolex I’m after.
I’d be mendacity if I claimed I didn’t have my reservations. However coming off the excessive of spending time with the Fifty Fathom BOC IV, I can genuinely say that I’ve change into a fan of the watch. It’s what the trendy Fifty Fathoms ought to be. It presents an ideal mixture of the well-known seems of the primary Fifty Fathoms from the early Fifties and a totally trendy tackle that basic watch. This excellent marriage of the 2 is likely one of the strongest options of this new limited-edition Fifty Fathoms.
Combining the very best of two worlds
As I defined in my evaluation, I used to be a fan of the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 and the Tech Gombessa, which each debuted as a part of Blancpain’s Seventieth-anniversary celebrations for the Fifty Fathoms. Whereas the primary was an amazing watch to have fun the basic dive icon (if solely Blancpain would launch an everyday chrome steel manufacturing model of that watch!), the second confirmed what the trendy Fifty Fathoms may appear like. The 47mm watch was developed with critical diving challenges in thoughts and featured a three-hour dive bezel and a corresponding hand, which Blancpain developed for closed-circuit tech divers.
Blancpain took that watch because the inspiration for its new Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV. It retains the model of the Gombessa, tones down the dimensions, and loses the 180-minute dive bezel and the additional hand. What stays is a superbly sculpted watch that took me unexpectedly. I’ve criticized Blancpain for squandering its icon’s nice legacy and thought I hadn’t seen the way it may enhance but. However after spending time with this new Tech BOC IV, I’m certain it’s the means ahead for the trendy Fifty Fathoms fashions.
A perfectly designed trendy case
The watch has a properly sculpted 45mm titanium case with a 14.1mm thickness. This case exhibits an amazing eye for design. Primarily, it’s divided into three elements. The decrease and center parts of the “folded” case flanks make up roughly two-thirds of the thickness, whereas the higher third is the unidirectional bezel. I used to be severely impressed by the design and execution. First, in case you let your eyes go from the built-in rubber strap to the case, you will notice a pointy line dividing the decrease and center parts. That very same line continues on the rubber strap for a superb pure circulation.
Moreover, the circulation from the strap to the case is seamless due to the central “lugs” and the good manufacturing high quality. In consequence, the strap’s left and proper sides hug the case flanks superbly. This stage of element and high quality exhibits Blancpain’s excellent craftsmanship.
Moreover, the eye to element is spectacular and never seen on many watches in the identical class. From the superbly completed case to the mixing of the helium escape valve and the superbly angular crown guards, it’s clear that Blancpain left no element unconsidered. That is what actually made me really feel like Blancpain is a correct step up from lots of the manufacturers we affiliate with trendy luxurious dive watches, together with Rolex.
The finer factors of the Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV
That additionally turns into obvious with the motion. Everyone knows the caliber powering any Rolex device watch is constructed like a tank. However if you need a correct step up in watchmaking, the Blancpain’s in-house caliber 1315A presents simply that. The automated motion contains 227 elements, has 35 jewels, and offers 120 hours of energy reserve. Moreover, it includes a Glucydur free-sprung stability with gold regulation screws in addition to a sweeping brushed end and polished bevels on the bridges. The skeletonized rotor has the model’s engraved Ocean Dedication brand, a pleasant contact linking the watch to Blancpain’s mission to protect marine life.
That is the one instantly seen signal of its lively hyperlinks to the world of diving, however as soon as you set the watch on the wrist, it appears like a correct device. An extremely properly designed and expertly made one, I’d add. At its core, this feels far more like a watch developed for its supposed objective than the Sea-Dweller. I discover romance in that, and it shapes my choice. Plus, sporting the 45mm case pleasantly stunned me. Whereas it might sound dauntingly massive at first, I can affirm that it feels smaller than its diameter suggests. Due to the central strap connectors, there are not any conventional lugs to make the case longer. This makes the Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV really feel like a 42mm watch, which was an amazing shock.
Sporting is believing
On account of its design, the watch wears higher than many 40mm+ luxurious divers, together with the Seamaster Diver 300M and the present Sea-Dweller. The superbly formed rubber strap additionally makes sporting the pretty light-weight titanium Fifty Fathoms BOC IV a pleasure. That’s how the watch fully gained me over. It presents itself as an extremely well-made and intelligently thought of product that makes use of Blancpain’s luxurious watchmaking chops to be a greater dive watch. This creates a much more private connection than I may have imagined or may ever have with the present Sea-Dweller.
The reason being easy: I don’t need the present Sea-Dweller. I’m after the older, smaller Sea-Dweller ref. 16600. And even when we have a look at the present Rolex assortment of device watches, I’d choose the titanium Yacht-Grasp 42 over the Sea-Dweller in a heartbeat. After that, I’d even select the Submariner over the Sea-Dweller. When it comes time to choose an expert dive watch that might function a each day wearer, I’d undoubtedly take the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms BOC IV.
I perceive that not that lots of the Fratelli may assume the identical. However to grasp the magic of the Fifty Fathoms BOC IV, it’s a must to see it in actual life and put on it. Then you’ll perceive why this far dearer choice is my choose. It’s as a result of a private connection from expertise that’s much more highly effective than any preconceived notion of which of the 2 is healthier. However go forward, Mike; inform our readers why you assume the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 ought to win this battle.
Picture: The Watch Membership
Mike: Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600
Thanks, Jorg. For me, this Sunday Morning Showdown is an absolute layup. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a advantageous watch, however there’s no world during which I’d select it over the Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600. Despite the fact that the Sea-Dweller 126600 shouldn’t be my favourite Rolex diver by a protracted shot, let me clarify why I prefer it a lot greater than the most recent Fifty Fathoms.
Picture: Watch Membership
There are oodles of Rolex haters on the market who love to speak about how boring the model’s watches are and the way they not often change. These sentiments imply little to me as a result of Rolex dive watches don’t want to alter. They’re the usual bearers and outline what a diver ought to appear like. Examine the present Sea-Dweller to the Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV, and it’s exhausting not to have a look at the hockey puck with its oddball lug design as little greater than a gimmick.
Picture: The Watch Membership
Picture: The Watch Membership
A rock-solid and well-made watch
Let’s additionally remind ourselves that Rolex’s construct high quality is second to none. Positive, the model is in every single place and perhaps isn’t seen as a inventive or authentic alternative. But, even with the corporate’s success, there’s no proof of resting on laurels and making subpar watches. Controls just like the bezel and screw-down crown all really feel completely weighted and actual. Contemplating {that a} Rolex diver is a mass-market product, I’m satisfied no model does it higher.
Picture: The Watch Membership
Think about the dial and bezel particulars on the Sea-Dweller. Flaws are tough to search out. The blue Chromalight shines brightly in the dead of night, permitting house owners to keep away from typical reservation-filled conversations with traces like, “It’s an amazing watch, however the lume stinks.” We are able to complain concerning the Cyclops above the date, nevertheless it’s truly an ode to steady enchancment. When the 126600 debuted in 2017, Rolex acknowledged that it took many years to create a crystal with its signature magnifying function that might stand up to the stress at 1,220 meters. If the Cyclops isn’t lovable, maybe the throwback pink dial textual content makes up for it. It was a very good transfer and provides a dose of allure to this professional-grade dive watch.
Picture: The Watch Membership
The very best bracelet within the recreation?
On one hand, Rolex deserves huge credit score for producing the very best bracelets within the watch business. However, it’s miserable that different manufacturers proceed to stumble and fall when designing these essential equipment. In in the present day’s showdown, Blancpain takes the straightforward means out with rubber. That is likely to be preferable for a dive, however I need extra metallic at these costs. The Oyster bracelet with its Oysterlock clasp and Glidelock toolless adjustment system is peerless. The hyperlinks are superbly completed, and with Rolex, there’s by no means a pointy edge except it’s alleged to be there. Ultimately, the bracelet additionally permits this device watch to outlive in a enterprise setting, whereas the Blancpain comes off as too sporty and informal.
Picture: The Watch Membership
A bulletproof motion
Rolex has included its 3235 computerized caliber inside the Sea-Dweller’s helium-valve-equipped chrome steel case. The motion is down on energy reserve versus the Blancpain with “simply” 70 hours. Nonetheless, the chronometer caliber has an accuracy of ±2 seconds per day after casing.
Picture: The Watch Membership
Giant and commanding
Whereas the Sea-Dweller is a bit massive for me, the 43mm by 50mm case is a compelling choice for these with medium to massive wrists. At 15.5mm thick, it’s definitely not slim, however that’s a product of the water resistance. Think about that the Fifty Fathoms BOC IV is 45mm vast and 14.1mm thick however solely has a 300m depth ranking. Realistically, nobody will go as deep as both of those watches can, however the Sea-Dweller is designed to be the extra succesful device.
What isn’t so commanding on this competitors is the value. At €13,900, the Rolex is almost €10,000 lower than the €23,250 Blancpain. That’s a enormous distinction and one which I may by no means justify. The Sea-Dweller 126600 appears like a extra full package deal and one I wouldn’t get uninterested in seeing on my wrist. If I actually needed one thing comparatively much like the Fifty Fathoms BOC IV, I’d take a number of the financial savings and buy a Seiko Tuna. Then once more, that’s me!
Picture: The Watch Membership
Time to decide on
You’ve heard from Jorg on the limited-edition Blancpain Fifty Fathoms BOC IV and from me on the Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600. Each of those two deepwater titans deserve respect, however you possibly can solely select one in in the present day’s showdown. Which diver will get your vote, and why? Tell us your ideas within the feedback part, and thanks for enjoying!
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV vs. Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600
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