With the large return in reputation of integrated bracelet watches previously few years, metallic bracelets have made a sensational comeback, to the purpose the place these are now not unique to sports activities watches. However how annoying is it to see a brilliantly designed watch, on which the model has taken nice consideration to element and spent a lot time refining the case, connected to a mean metallic bracelet? Imagine me, it occurs as a rule. The reason being easy: crafting a bracelet is complicated (many small elements, all articulated, and even a high quality clasp isn’t straightforward to provide). Typically, these are outsourced and the result’s, at finest, commonplace… However this 12 months at Watches and Wonders and through the Geneva Watch Week, we now have seen a formidable return of high quality bracelets. Elegant, punchy or just enormously engineered, right here’s what we came upon.
The Rolex SetTimo bracelet on the Perpetual 1908
Oyster, Jubilee, President, Pearlmaster and even Oysterflex (certainly, Rolex considers its rubber choice a bracelet and never a strap…) The Crown is understood for mastering each the design and engineering sides of bracelet making. However this 12 months, Rolex launched a model new metallic bracelet design named Settimo. A flowery identify for a flowery bracelet. Rolex being Rolex, every part novel from the model is large information… Not a Jubilee, not a President, not a beads-of-rice, this new Settimo bracelet is made of seven contoured hyperlinks, a dressy choice now supplied in yellow gold (for now) on the Perpetual 1908. Vastly crafted (no surprises right here), it’s an absolute pleasure to put on because of its suppleness and adaptability, and the best way it flows on the wrist. The hidden, absolutely built-in Crownclasp seems implausible, despite the fact that it cancels the opportunity of a micro-adjustment system. What’s actually stunning is that the king of overengineering presents it on curved, semi-open end-links. However even that half is has been patented… And the seems? Pure class.
Rolex Goes built-in bracelet with the Land-Dweller
We are going to come again very quickly to the Land-Dweller and its incredible escapement, however now we’ll concentrate on the bracelet. There are issues to say right here. First, it marks the comeback of the Crown to the built-in model of the Oysterquartz and different Nineteen Seventies fashions. Then, subsequent to the Settimo, it’s the second new sort of bracelet that Rolex is introducing this 12 months, the so-called Flat Jubilee bracelet. A reinterpretation of a traditional design launched on the Datejust in 1945 (80 years in the past), it retains the identical 5-link construction with three narrower hyperlinks within the centre flanked by two broader ones on the edges, however with flat surfaces. The execution is great. The ending, with the brand new technical satin end (a linear matte floor with longer strains) and polished chamfers in every single place, is spectacular. Contemplating its slender 9mm lug width, the connection of the bracelet to the case is once more a patented course of that features ceramic inserts and tubes to guard the spring bar and assist stop untimely put on. It’s as soon as once more closed by a hid folding Crownclasp, visually harmonious however with out micro-adjustment.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Monoface on gold Milanese bracelet
Undoubtedly probably the most mentioned and praised watches of your entire truthful… This new Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in Pink gold with a tone-on-tone dial and a Milanese gold bracelet actually caught all people’s consideration. And for apparent causes, because it does look spectacular. This watch is the proper instance of how a well-designed, well-thought-out metallic bracelet can rework probably the most traditional and stylish watches into an entire new object… with out shedding an oz. of its refinement. The consistency of the design and color scheme, this full gold apparel, might have resulted in a flashy, ostentatious watch, and surprisingly, it doesn’t. And whereas the watch itself is nothing revolutionary, this new apparel elevates it to an entire new stage (ps. that grained dial may need one thing to do with it too…)
Furlan Marri’s Disco Volante on a “herringbone” mesh bracelet
A watch that caught my consideration for a lot of causes… The Furlan Marri Disco Volante isn’t new, nevertheless, the so-called herringbone-style metal mesh bracelet is a latest addition to the model’s assortment, and is now included in all future and previous Disco Volante orders (good to know if you have already got one). In addition to this, the model can even quickly launch the model you see right here with a black onyx dial and utilized baguette lab-grown diamonds. And it seems implausible. However since we’re right here to speak about bracelets, let me simply inform you that this addition to the watch is completely very good and enhances its funky, dressy, classic look completely. It virtually seems like a bit of woven material, with its geometric hyperlinks. As soon as once more, this proves that micro-brands can transcend simply conventional, outsourced bracelets, and Furlan Marri pushed the thought of the mesh bracelet additional with a design that’s refined, elegant and distinctive.
The Lange Odysseus on full Honeygold bracelet
As soon as once more, no revolution right here, as we now have seen A. Lange & Söhne’s sports watch, the Odysseus, already on a metallic bracelet – both in steel or in titanium. Up till now, the gold model of this watch – in white gold, ought to I add – was completely worn on a leather-based or rubber strap. This 12 months, the German model brings its proprietary Honeygold alloy to the collection, and provides an identical bracelet to the lot. And whereas it might have been excessive, the result’s quite discreet (comparatively talking) and really constant. Sure, it has character and likewise weighs near 300 grams, however the very conception of the bracelet makes it a lot simpler to put on than one would anticipate. And it retains the intelligent folding clasp of the metal mannequin. Once more, this exhibits how a well-designed bracelet can rework a watch.
Grand Seiko lastly goes micro-adjustment with the UFA Ice Forest SLGB003
As of now, we’re going to maneuver from design-only to pure engineering. And we now have to start out with the bracelet of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB003. Whereas there’s quite a bit to be stated about this watch – as reported here – what issues at this time is the truth that GS lastly cancels one of many fundamental complaints about its watches, the shortage of high quality adjustment on the clasp. First seen on the Extremely Wonderful Accuracy, the model has developed a easy, easy-to-use, sensible and finally easy system that enables for increasing the size of the bracelet by 6mm in three 2mm steps. No software, no fuss, only a good, not-too-big clasp in titanium that may make your life simpler throughout scorching summer time days. Now we simply have to attend for this clasp to be deployed on extra watches.
The clasp of the Tudor Pelagos Extremely
In order for you the best-in-class folding clasp for a dive watch, look no additional. The one connected to the new Tudor Pelagos Ultra is as overengineered as a Nineteen Nineties Mercedes S-class, and equally constructed to final. Let’s break it down… First, it incorporates a rack extension system to rapidly modify the size of the bracelet, and the exterior aspect of the clasp has a cut-out with a visible indicator that features a luminous marker to simply discern what setting the bracelet is at (I imply… somebody may need damage Tudor’s emotions…) Then, look inside and also you’ll see a pair of springs that enable the bracelet to increase or retract relying on the scale of the wetsuit as you ascend or descend. Lastly, there’s a flipping component that acts as an extended wetsuit extension – traditional, however then once more, sensible. Now we have included the official video of the model under as that is the easiest way to point out what’s occurring. This might properly be the brand new benchmark for a dive watch clasp. And the Pelagos Extremely additionally comes with a black rubber strap, with its personal rubber extension piece.
TAG Heuer’s intelligent size adjustment on the brand new Carrera Day-Date
Right here once more, we’re not speaking about design – that is nothing greater than only a traditional 3-link metal bracelet – however the bracelets of the revamped TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date cover one thing very intelligent and extremely sensible. Most watch fanatics know the way tough it’s to regulate the size of a metallic bracelet, particularly these with pins. Even when these are outfitted with screws, there’s at all times the worry of scratching the properly polished sides of the hyperlinks. With its new Carrera Day-Date, TAG brings a easy, user-friendly, tool-free answer, which makes full sense in a world the place an increasing number of gross sales are completed digitally. Flip the exterior hyperlinks 90 levels after which merely pull them out, and you’ll then take away one hyperlink totally, effortlessly. Put that again and place, rotate 90 levels once more and voila. All completed. It’s simply too unhealthy that TAG Heuer doesn’t embody a quick-change system and a micro-adjust clasp. That may have made this probably the most user-friendly bracelets in the marketplace.
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