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Bring a Loupe: A Different Astronaut Speedmaster, A Solid Gold GMT-Master, And Gilt Dials Galore


Joyful Friday, and welcome again to Carry A Loupe! With Watches and Wonders kicking off subsequent week, at this time’s article shall be your final dispatch from the land of classic, for now. We’ll be skipping our weekly column subsequent Friday amidst the insanity. If something wonderful pops up on eBay or elsewhere, I will make sure you report the information the week after subsequent.

Talking of reporting, I am delighted to search out that every one 5 picks from final week have discovered a brand new wrist and/or pocket! The, to steal the phrases of commenter barrykm, “breathtakingly lovely” Patek Philippe ref. 1589J has been marked as bought; the asking value was $20,850. Our Cartier “pocket gambler” went for £2,200 at Chorley’s Auctioneers. Over on LoupeThis, the malachite-dialed Vacheron Constantin bought for $11,000. And on Ebay, somebody hit the Purchase It Now on the ex-Hodinkee Store Mulco at $2,500 and the Movado Ermeto triple calendar bought for $1,563.63.

And let’s get into this week’s picks!

1969 Omega Speedmaster Ref. 145.022-69BA Offered to NASA Astronaut Gus Grissom

So you might have heard the news of Neil Armstrong’s commemorative Omega Speedmaster coming up for auction with an estimate of $2,000,000+, effectively right here we’ve one other instance from the run of NASA Astronaut-linked, gold Speedies.

A Gold Omega Speedmaster

Nicely, let’s rewind and set the scene. You might also have heard that the Omega Speedmaster went to the moon on the wrists of Apollo 11 astronauts in 1969. NASA’s selecting of the Speedmaster modified the watch world eternally and, even then, Omega thought it was a giant deal. To have fun, they turned their newest mannequin, Speedmaster, gold and kicked off the manufacturing run with both 28 or 34 (relying on who you ask) commemorative watches.

Gold Speedie #1 and quantity 2 have been supplied as items to the President and Vice President of the USA, Richard Nixon and Spiro Agnew, respectively, however have been turned down because the watches have been “too worthwhile.” Watches numbered 3 to twenty-eight have been introduced to NASA astronauts who completed an area mission. On November 25, 1969, an Astronaut Appreciation Dinner was held in Houston, and the watches have been doled out. So, precisely 26 of those Omegas got to NASA astronauts at that dinner; we all know that quantity to be true.

A Gold Omega Speedmaster

2023 was a wild yr for these watches, covered on Hodinkee back then, seven of the 26 bought all inside months of one another. Costs have been in all places as collectors determined which astronaut meant extra of a premium and, extra usually, how a lot certainly one of these watches is value — I consider the monetary gurus name this a whipsaw. The instance we’ve at this time was one of many seven accessible again in 2023, when it bought for $375,000 at RR Auctions.

Virgil “Gus” Grissom was certainly one of seven “authentic” astronauts, dubbed the Mercury Seven. Grissom holds the distinctions of being each the second American in house (Liberty Bell 7, 1961) and the primary man to go to house twice (Gemini 3, 1965). Tragically, he and his fellow astronauts Ed White and Roger Chaffee have been killed in a cabin hearth throughout a pre-launch check on January 27, 1967, prepping for the Apollo 1 mission. Grissom’s household obtained the watch in Houston in 1969, accepting it on his behalf, and it stayed within the household for years.

A Gold Omega Speedmaster

The jury remains to be out on Armstrong’s Speedie, the public sale ends on April seventeenth. This one, accessible now, is barely much less traditionally vital however may see an increase in curiosity because of the assumed giant quantity that the Armstrong instance finally ends up going for.

The vendor, Adam Golden of Menta Watches in Miami, has listed Gus Grissom’s ref. 145.022-69BA to his web site. It’s “Worth Upon Request” and upon requesting, I discovered the value to be $415,000. You may view the itemizing in full right here.

2007 Rolex GMT-Grasp Ref. 116718LN In 18k Yellow Gold

A solid gold Rolex GMT-Master with a green dial

From one commemorative all-gold sports activities watch to the following, I’ve at all times had a tender spot in my vintage-leaning coronary heart for the fiftieth anniversary Rolex GMT-Grasp in yellow gold with a deep “Rolex” inexperienced dial. You would possibly already be scrolling as a result of “tHIs ISn’t VinTAge, RicH!” however guess what? It is 20 years outdated and technically, on the earth of collectibles, that is all it takes for one thing to be “classic.” I am effectively conscious of the frequent definitions for classic watches far pre-dating 2005, don’t fret. Simply having just a little enjoyable. However perhaps my thoughts is on trendy Rolex with 2025’s releases to hit the press wire subsequent Tuesday. Okay, I am completed explaining why I put this watch right here, in case you do not prefer it, please transfer to my subsequent decide.

Classic or not, it is a nice, nice watch. I want this actual therapy was how Rolex celebrated all of its sports activities mannequin anniversaries. All of it makes excellent sense given the skilled instrument watch to luxurious watch transition that the model has gone by way of over the previous half century plus. The all-gold, closely polished case and bracelet paired with the distinctive inexperienced dial leads to one thing that’s so “trendy Rolex” that I simply have to understand it. A stable gold GMT-Grasp is a glance however that is one I’d proudly put on.

A solid gold Rolex GMT-Master with a green dial

When you think about the pricing for different ceramic-bezeled Rolex and trendy Rolex basically, this reference has at all times appeared extraordinarily effectively priced within the pre-owned market. Frequently buying and selling below $40,000, whereas that may be a giant quantity, you would be laborious pressed to search out one thing else from the Crown that’s this enticing and, as a plus, it has a little bit of a narrative behind it because of the anniversary connection — I can think about that story will age effectively.

The vendor, Curtis of Gray and Patina in San Fransisco, has listed this Rolex ref. 116718LN to his web site with an asking value of $39,500. Get all the particulars right here.

Sixties Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002 With Shiny Gilt Dial

A gilt dial Rolex OP

A pleasant palette cleanser in case you have been appalled by the final decide, this Sixties Oyster Perpetual is definitely fairly unusual and laborious to search out in nice situation. For classic Rolex collectors, you are likely to both lean in direction of the later matte dials for his or her iconic flat look or you might be drawn into the “old fashioned” manufacturing means of the shiny “gilt” dials of Stern Freres Creations. I am the latter and, with that, I preserve a eager eye on gilt Rolex available in the market. Discovering a watch with certainly one of these dials with out “matteing” — the place age makes the gloss end fade to extra of a matte look — or scratches from clumsy servicing is extremely tough.

Oyster Perpetuals like this ref. 1002 are probably the most accessible of all Rolex gilt dials. Datejusts are likely to commerce extra in direction of $10k than they do $5k and if you transfer into the sports activities fashions, nice gilt examples pattern above $20k simply. However with the OP you get a lot of the dial attraction, a slim Oyster case, and that traditional classic Rolex look with out digging too far into your piggy financial institution.

A gilt dial Rolex OP

Situation right here seems to be stable. The dial seems good and shiny within the solar and the case is robust. Fitted on a period-correct-at-least rivet Oyster bracelet, it is a full package deal. The supply right here is nice, a vendor who has dealt with extra classic Rolex than simply about anybody. If that is your factor, it might be some time earlier than you discover one other one.

The vendor, Carl of Veralet Watches, has listed this gilt-dialed Rolex OP through the Pushers.io app with an asking value of $5,500. Test it out right here.

Sixties Eterna Tremendous Kontiki Ref. 130 FTP-3

An Eterna Super-Kontiki

I am unashamed to inform you proper now that the rest of this week’s choice all have shiny gilt dials, sue me. In 1947, a Norwegian explorer named Thor Heyerdahl and a crew of 5 drifted a balsa-wood raft, referred to as “Kon-Tiki,” from Peru to the Polynesian Islands. This begs the query: Why? Nicely, there was a thesis that Polynesia was settled from the east quite than the west. By drifting this course for 101 days, simply as people would have been able to doing centuries in the past, Heyerdahl and his crew proved this principle attainable.

Heyerdahl’s journey was a giant deal again then and obtained loads of press. We’re speaking in regards to the years proper after World Conflict II and many years of wars world wide. The Kon-Tiki journey aimed to remind the world of human’s inherent need to discover. It was a really feel good story again within the day.

An Eterna Super-Kontiki

In traditional watch model style, Eterna claimed that members of the Kon-Tiki crew wore certainly one of its watches. This has by no means been confirmed however what we all know to be true is that Eterna began making water resistant watches bearing the identify Kontiki in 1958. By 1960, the Tremendous-Kontiki was launched as Eterna’s flagship dive watch. These Tremendous-Kontiki are tremendous effectively made and have a singular dial format with giant arrow-shaped luminous indices and “12,” “6,” and “9” numerals left non-luminous inside their respective markers.

Right here we’ve a pleasant instance of the third technology, ref. 130 FTP-3, Tremendous-KonTiki. You actually must be careful for reluming in these watches, this one seem to hold its authentic materials. It is a classic dive watch that the majority classic fanatics have by no means seen earlier than, constructed to the identical requirements as one thing like a Submariner or Seamaster 300 of the interval. Plus, the unique “brick-link” bracelets, just like the one right here, have been offered by Homosexual Frères.

An Eterna Super-Kontiki

An eBay vendor in Hollywood, Florida, has listed this Eterna Tremendous-Kontiki for public sale, ending on Wednesday, April 2nd at 9:00 am ET. On the time of publication, no bids had been positioned on the opening supply of $5,900. Get all the particulars right here.

Sixties Titus Calypsomatic “Mid-Dimension” Ref. 7987

A Titus Calypsomatic

The Titus Calypsomatic is one other lesser-known classic dive possibility. I will say this, the construct high quality isn’t as excessive because the Eterna Tremendous-Kontiki however that may be a excessive bar. Made in a variety of sizes, the Calypsomatic is one of the best different to the Rolex “Massive Crown” Submariner ref. 6538 for means, means much less. A whole lot of the identical particulars are current from the shiny gilt dials to the large guard-less crown and the massive triangle at 12 o’clock on the bezel. It is the identical search for exponentially much less.

A real undertaking eBay discover, this ref. 7987 is within the article as a result of the dial seems to be so, so good. A slight trace of tropical growing old could be seen by way of the crazed crystal, that is the type of watch you purchase with some threat because it does not look nice now. However my seasoned eBay eye is telling me that with some TLC, a brand new crystal, a bezel from one other instance (which you’ll be able to supply from eBay fairly simply), and a easy service to the ETA motion, this factor could be killer.

A Titus Calypsomatic

Know this earlier than working to bid, it is a “mid-size” reference checking in at 32mm diameter and 41mm lug-to-lug. So, it is smaller than you would possibly assume however in case you can pull off a smaller watch, I’ve a sense you are going to love this one.

An eBay vendor in Glendale, California has listed this Calypsomatic for a Purchase It Now value of $500. Test it out in full right here.

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