Enameling is without doubt one of the oldest decorative techniques, invented over 4,000 years in the past and used, for instance, in Mesopotamia after which Egypt. Surprisingly sufficient, the earliest enamel all used the cloisonné technique, identified to be one of the complicated strategies presently in use. Beneath the phrase enamel, a minimum of in watchmaking and ornamental strategies, we suggest the idea of vitreous enamel, made by firing powered glass to a excessive temperature, leading to a clean, sturdy vitreous coating – one thing that’s usually referred to as grand feu enamel, probably the most generally used approach in watchmaking. However there’s extra than simply the traditional, uniform, milky white enamel dial, as we’ll see by exploring some fascinating watches utilizing the cloisonné, champlevé, flinqué or plique-à-jour approach.
The idea of enamelling is historical… It has been utilized by a number of vintage cultures across the globe, like Mesopotamia, Egypt, and later China, Japan, the Islamic World and Europe. The approach consists of making use of to a steel base (vital) a mixture of powdered glass and components akin to iron, chromium and soda, which is then heated to nice temperatures (normally between 750 and 850 °C) so the powder melts, flows and hardens to lead to a clean, shiny vitreous floor identified for its durablity – the floor is tough, immune to chemical compounds and scratches (about 5 to six on the Mohs scale) and the colors obtained are extraordinarily long-lasting. It’s considerably corresponding to glass and isn’t paint. It might, nevertheless, crack or shatter when the underlying materials is subjected to emphasize.
Once we speak about enamel, generally a minimum of, we take note of the traditional notion of Grand Feu enamel, a monolithic floor with a single-colour that has been used on watch dials for hundreds of years – most vintage pocket watches relied on enamel dials, explaining why so a lot of them are nonetheless in nice situations. But, enamelling is extra than simply this uniform dial you’ve come to count on, and plenty of different strategies exist, most of them complicated and time-consuming. Notice: so-called “chilly enamel” shouldn’t be confused with conventional enamel, because it doesn’t require to be fired in a kiln. It’s a resin-type substance dispersed on a dial clean. Chilly enamel usually cures and hardens at room temperature.
Basic Grand Feu – Breguet Classique Part de Lune 7787
Grand Feu enamel is the bottom for all the next strategies. It’s the mom recipe in order for you. Beneath the title Grand Feu (which may very well be translated as Nice Hearth), we have now to know conventional enamelling, the place powdered silica and different compounds are heated on a steel base (usually gold for high-end watches) at very excessive temperatures in successive layers, melting and fusing the particles, requiring a number of reheats that finally creates a deep, glassy floor. It’s a really tough course of with a excessive failure fee, and every return to the kiln jeopardizes the earlier layers. Layers are used for a desired thickness and in addition for a number of colours.
Grand Feu enamel is commonly seen in white however can really be made in just about any color of the spectrum, together with deep black – which is considered one of the complicated to attain, because the slightest mud particle will likely be instantly seen. A terrific and up to date instance is the Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787 with Black Grand Feu Enamel Dial, a watch that mixes classic design elements of the brand with a vibrant, wealthy enamelled dial in black. Its magnificence lies on this mixture of a deep, darkish color with a charmingly unbalanced show with moonphase and energy reserve, along with signature Breguet numerals (additionally made in enamel) and palms.
For extra particulars about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.
Plique-a-Jour – Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon
Plique-à-jour, loosely translated as “letting within the daylight,” refers to clear enamel devoid of backing. The design resembles a stained glass window, that includes a steel define (body) stuffed with numerous clear, glass-like enamels of a number of colors. Like cloisonné, plique-à-jour consists of steel partitions or cells with a short lived backing, normally eliminated by way of an acid bathtub.
One of many uncommon fashionable watches to make use of this method is the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève. Nevertheless, opposite to the normal approach the place the backing is later eliminated, the artisans at La Fabrique des Arts opted for a capillary motion fill with none assist. This system entails depositing materials into open cells by way of fast and light-weight actions, guaranteeing even spreading of the enamel with out air pockets. The result’s mesmerizing, with a white gold body fabricated from subtly intertwined V shapes and spherical openings at 12 and 6 o’clock. It undergoes 5 to 6 layers of enamel and an equal variety of kiln firings. The method calls for round 100 hours of meticulous work to provide only one dial.
For extra particulars about this watch, please seek the advice of our hands-on article and our in-depth video.
Cloisonné – Andersen Geneve x BCHH Celestial Voyager
Cloisonné émail may very well be translated as compartmented enamel. As stated, it’s the oldest approach in use and depends on small compartments made because of steel strips or wire, most normally fabricated from gold. These cloisons or compartments are then stuffed with vitreous enamel in numerous colors to create patterns or scenes with an unbelievable degree of element. It may be used to create just about any decor, from traditional to fashionable… or customised to the desires of the longer term proprietor.
Cloisonné enamel stays a uncommon and costly artwork that few grasp. Just lately, we’ve seen this method utilized by Benjamin Chee Haute Horlogerie in affiliation with Andersen Genève, to create a number of collection of worldtimer watches with inventive dials. The most recent “Sundown over Cappadocia” fashions, with lavishly hand-decorated cloisonné enamel dials, are an ideal instance of what’s attainable to attain when combining expertise and creativity.
For extra particulars about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.
Champlevé – Krayon Wherever Arborea
Like cloisonné, the champlevé method segments a dial. In contrast to cloisonné, champlevé achieves this by first carving a steel dial. These areas are then stuffed in with enamel, fired to melting level, then cooled and polished. The impact is vibrant or patterned raised fields (that’s what champlevé means), with the uncarved portion framing numerous enamel designs. Similar to cloisonné, champlevé can be utilized to create an infinity of patterns and decors, and the restrict stays the creativity of the artist.
One among our latest encounters with the champlevé enamel method, and a shocking watch altogether, was the Krayon Anywhere Arborea, impressed by Henri Rousseau’s well-known portray The Virgin Forest at Sundown, and executed in a mosaic-like method – virtually like an impressionist portray. The dial of this extremely complicated timepiece, providing dawn and sundown instances for a particular location, is finished by carving 575 miniature, uniquely sized and formed cavities, every meticulously hand-painted by a Swiss enamel artist. Equivalent outcomes have been obtained by the model in a unique edition created for Jean Todt, impressed by Vincent van Gogh’s Starry Evening.
For extra particulars about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.
Flinqué – Czapek Quai Des Bergues
One other enamel approach is known as flinqué (I do know, at the moment looks as if a French lesson…), and it combines each enamelling and engraving strategies. The flinqué approach consists of first making use of an engraved sample to the bottom of the dial – it may be conventional guilloché, free engraving, or CNC-machined patterns – after which making use of on high a number of layers of translucent enamel that, after being fired in a kiln, will reveal the feel beneath.
The flinqué approach has been utilized in numerous watches lately – though the title of the approach hardly ever seems – akin to the revised version of the Czapek Quai Des Bergues with updated movement, presented in 2022. The flinqué enamel dials function the signature Czapek Ricochet guilloché pattern in two intense enamelled colors – sapphire blue and emerald inexperienced. The intricate, repetitive motif relies on a double focus to create finely textured, fascinating and distinctive wave interferences. The complicated sample is partially revealed by way of the successive layers of transluscent enamel. An an identical approach has lately been used by Vuitton in an Escale model.
For extra particulars about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.
Bonus, Porcelain – Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain SPB445
Whereas chilly enamel shouldn’t be confused with conventional enamel as it’s a a lot much less complicated course of, one other approach comes near enamel but exhibits some vital variations: porcelain. Now hardly used anymore in watchmaking, enamel dials are produced by molding the bottom materials – the vital distinction, as it’s a clay-based materials – to the precise form of the dial’s floor to make sure the consistency of measurement, depth and recesses. After drying, the dials are baked at 1300 °C, hand-glazed, and baked once more. The second firing bonds the glaze to the dial and brings out the delicate tint. Lastly, holes for the palms and complication home windows are made, and a 3rd baking smoothes the surfaces. The result’s a dial with extra depth and a extra “milky” floor than enamel, in addition to a special lustre, with a really mushy in look.
One of many uncommon manufacturers to nonetheless use porcelain is Seiko, with the Presage collection and the handsome Arita Porcelain models – that are utilizing a standard approach from town of Arita, small city situated on the Japanese island of Kyushu identified for hundreds of years for its overglaze “enamelled” ornament and merchandise. Along with a barely completely different and presumably hotter outcome, Arita porcelain can also be extra accessible than conventional grand feu enamel. And this offers us watches like the Presage Craftsmanship Series Arita Porcelain Dial SPB445, with its good-looking white dial with blue markers and printings. So not precisely enamel, however definitely a substitute for discover with smaller budgets.
For extra particulars about this watch, please consult our hands-on article.
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