Since its revamp in 2020, the Chronomat has rapidly develop into Breitling’s signature assortment of high-end on a regular basis watches, or, within the firm’s phrases, its “all-purpose sport-chic watch. What this strategy interprets to in actual life is a large assortment of sizes, features, and types whereas guaranteeing every iteration maintains elementary Chronomat design particulars corresponding to bezel rider tabs, distinguished onion-style crowns, wearable spherical instances, and easy-to-read baton indices and handsets. Whereas some variations lean into the gathering’s tool-watch roots, others push the design towards a extra expressive, luxurious aesthetic. The Breitling Chronomat Automated 36 South Sea in ice blue, which I had the possibility to go hands-on with, belongs in that luxurious lane, that includes a mixture of gems, a contact of treasured metals, and a contemporary shade palette.
Whereas Breitling usually depends closely on its aviation previous, the South Sea Capsule Assortment brings a extra playful luxurious aesthetic impressed by the tropics with out veering into full-on jewellery watch territory. The 36mm chrome steel case sits properly on the wrist — mine is just below 6 inches — and it by no means felt too cumbersome or too delicate. At 10.01mm thick with a 43.3mm lug-to-lug, the proportions are snug and wearable, and the 100 meters of water resistance means I may get it moist if I wished to with none worries.
The dial shade is a spotlight right here, shifting between shades of cool blue and smooth silver relying on the sunshine. We’ve seen loads of icy blue dials recently on watches, nevertheless it nonetheless feels contemporary and fashionable. When this shade will begin to really feel passé, I can’t say for sure, however I don’t assume we’re shut but. The diamonds set adjoining to the faceted hour markers, nonetheless, look like an afterthought. They don’t detract from the watch, however additionally they don’t add a lot besides to emphasise the watch trade’s drained strategy of throwing diamonds on a dial if it’s labeled as a “girls’ watch.” Don’t get me incorrect, I really like a very good gem-set timepiece, however these blink-and-you’ll-miss-them diamonds actually don’t do a lot heavy lifting within the design division.
The gem-set bezel, although, is extra dynamic. That includes a gradient of blue, purple, and pink stones (suspiciously not specified as to what stones they’re) introduces shade in a manner that’s noticeable however actually not over-the-top extravagance. It’s actually extra about energetic pigment than overt sparkle right here. As with all Chronomat watches, the hallmark rider tabs are current, three of which embrace two stones, whereas the 12 o’clock one is ready with a single rock. The contact of treasured metals I discussed earlier than is discovered proper right here on the bezel, which is crafted from 18k white gold quite than the chrome steel used for the remainder of the case.
This Chronomat Automated 36 South Sea comes fitted on an identical ice blue alligator leather-based strap, which enhances the dial properly. Out of the field, the leather-based is, as anticipated, stiff and never all that snug, nevertheless it ought to soften with put on. Nevertheless, for followers of the Rouleaux bracelet, Breitling does supply this colorway with the famed roller-link bracelet in chrome steel. Evaluating photos of the bracelet model and this leather-based strap mannequin I had in my arms, I feel I favor the latter; the colour of the straps one way or the other subdues the multi-colored gem bezel whereas the complete bracelet emphasizes it an excessive amount of for my style.
Powering the watch is the Caliber 10, a 28,800bph (4 Hz), COSC-certified automated motion with a 42-hour energy reserve. Whereas it’s a stable, dependable self-winding caliber, Breitling opted to cover this non-in-house-made (ETA or Sellita sourced) with a stable caseback. Since I’m not on the “every little thing must be made in-house to be legit” practice, I feel an exhibition caseback would have been good to see the motion in motion.
This South Sea mannequin is a enjoyable, colourful tackle the Chronomat system, providing a mixture of sportiness and playfulness inside a well-sized case. It’s not a look ahead to minimalists, however for many who like a little bit of shade, some delicate sparkle, and a daring but versatile look, it’s a compelling possibility. The ice blue Breitling Chronomat Automated 36 South Sea’s (ref. G10380611C1P1) $10,950 USD price ticket is, nonetheless, a stretch. I may choose up two full metal Chronomat Automated 36 (on a bracelet) fashions with that funds, and I’m not satisfied {that a} smattering of diamonds on the dial, unnamed colourful gems on the bezel, and a blue alligator strap justify twice the worth. For extra info, please go to Breitling’s website.
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