British manufacturers get loads of protection nowadays, however the French are pushing simply as onerous and delivering unimaginable timepieces. AWAKE, launched in 2019, has simply introduced a watch that exhibits a real evolution of the model. AWAKE’s first few collections all used the identical case and featured meteorite, NASA, and doodles. Add an Alain Silberstein collab and also you’ve bought a model that’s having loads of enjoyable however maybe not taking issues severely. The latest Summetria releases with stamped guilloche advised the start of an evolution right into a extra critical model. Now, we have now the proof: the AWAKE Sơn Mài the model’s first everlasting assortment, with a wholly new case and a hand-crafted lacquer dial with silver leaf gilding.
As is true of all AWAKE watches, the case is produced from recycled supplies. Whereas earlier fashions have relied on titanium, the Sơn Màiuses recycled 316L metal, which is polished all through apart from the case band, which includes a crisp brushed end. The case measures a really wearable 39mm with an 11.8mm thickness and a really modest 45.6mm lug-to-lug. 39mm, I feel, is quick changing into the gold commonplace of wearability. Some will bemoan this, but it surely’s a cheerful center floor between too large and too small, and we’re seeing it because the go-to sizing for brand spanking new releases from small manufacturers. Whether or not you’re on board or not, my 7-inch wrist had no drawback with the match. The watch is accomplished with a sapphire crystal with AR coating and a pull-out crown with the AWAKE emblem. The case provides 50m of water resistance, which I really feel is completely sufficient for this model of watch.
The silhouette of the case has a comparatively flat line to it, however most notable are the refined protuberances that kind the beginnings of the lugs. These are suggestive of welded lugs you would possibly see on a way more costly product, and so they telegraph such luxurious with out commanding the identical worth. It’s a pleasant refined design factor that provides each character and refinement to the watch. Concerning the aspects and ending, I feel the transition between the polished high and polished chamfer might have been extra well-defined, and that these small bumps would possibly’ve been made a bit sharper as they give the impression of being smooth from the highest down.
For the straps, AWAKE has enlisted fanatic darling Delugs, outfitted with customized tang buckles with cutout sides and a mixture of brushed and polished surfaces. If you happen to’ve skilled Delugs straps, you realize they’re top of the range, and that’s actually the case right here. The 20mm pale gray nubuck leather-based strap included on the AWAKE Son Mai Amethyst permits the dial to shine and has a rubber lining that enables all-day consolation. I’ve half a thoughts to choose up some extra after carrying this for a bit.
Whereas I’m actually glad to see AWAKE introduce a brand new case design, the Sơn Mài is undoubtedly all concerning the dial. Supplied within the Amethyst seen right here in addition to inexperienced Emerald, crimson Laval, and Outre Blue, the dials mix two artisanal strategies to realize their coloration and texture. The dial includes a particular type of Vietnamese lacquer known as Sơn Mài, which sees the bottom coat of lacquer dried then sanded and polished to realize clean surfaces. A layer of silver leaves is then positioned and glued with a brush, adopted by the addition of the pure coloration pigments and extra coats of lacquer. AWAKE informs that that is an “historic artwork” and one among Vietnam’s most prized conventional creative practices. That’s all good and nicely, however what issues is the tip end result, and right here I feel AWAKE delivers one thing fairly stunning, with a pink-purple dial with a different texture that captures the sunshine for a big selection of hues.
There are basically two different parts to the dial: the indices and palms and the emblem. I’ll discuss concerning the emblem first. Once I reviewed the Tissot PRX Carbon a couple of weeks in the past, some commenters talked about the utilized polished emblem and the way it seemed low-cost. I feel the identical is true right here of the “AWAKE” on the dial. It simply doesn’t jibe with the sophistication of the Sơn Mài, and I feel it will’ve been an incredible alternative to make use of the AWAKE graphic emblem, which is already used on the crown. However the extra intriguing half is the palms and indices. AWAKE has taken a novel method that sees the palms and indices backlit by lume. What’s occurring is that polished indices and palms are resting on molded Tremendous-LumiNova, creating the phantasm that the indices themselves are glowing. You do lose among the brightness that you simply’d get from a conventional lume software, however I feel the impact is nicely value it. To make sure, I discovered myself going out of my technique to see the lume glowing from beneath.
For the brand new Sơn Mài sequence, Awake has made the leap to Swiss actions. After releasing three collections that used Miyota’s 9000 sequence actions, Awake has pushed upmarket to La Joux-Perret. Whereas LJP actions are a part of the identical household as Miyota, they’ve higher specs and the vaunted Swiss Made label. Right here, Awake has used the La Joux-Perret G101, the no-date model of the manufacture’s base G100 motion. The G101 provides hand-winding, hacking, and a 68-hour energy reserve at 28,800 vph. These aware of the whir Miyota actions can anticipate a little bit of the identical right here, because the G101 additionally options unidirectional winding. Personally, I didn’t thoughts it. Whereas the model isn’t clear, it seems that it has gone for the upgraded soignée execution of the G101, which brings Côtes de Genève striping on the plates and tungsten rotor, in addition to upgraded accuracy adjusted in 4 positions to -/+7 seconds per day.
I don’t suppose there’s ever a time once I don’t wish to see manufacturers evolving. I don’t need AWAKE to cease having enjoyable, and I don’t suppose the Sơn Mài represents a model pivot in the direction of extra “critical” watches. However I do wish to see this progress, and I see a possibility for the model to create two distinct silos for its watches: refined and informal. With the Sơn Mài, the groundwork has been set to construct out a household of polished, engaging timepieces that may act as a counterpoint to the watches that preceded it. The AWAKE Sơn Mài is priced at $2,150 USD. For extra data, please go to the AWAKE website.
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