I feel H. Moser & Cie. could have caught the food-watch bug throughout its collab with Studio Underd0g. The latter is well-known for utilizing completely different foodstuffs as inspiration for its dials, from the Moser collab’s ardour fruit to watermelon to mint chocolate chip ice cream. Moser has all the time preferred a little bit of enjoyable, from its Swiss Alp watch to its cheese watch to its Frankenstein Homage mashup. However till its Studio Underd0g collab, it didn’t actually contain meals past coloration naming. The furthest it went was utilizing “Smoked Salmon,” and whereas it truly referenced a particular kind of salmon within the advertising copy, salmon continues to be a standard coloration descriptor. Final 12 months’s collab with its ardour fruit inspiration was actually the primary time it had ventured into gustatory delights, after which it was with one other model. Now, it’s gone and made it’s personal breakfast watch: the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Facet Up.
At this level, the Moser Pioneer is well-known. As Moser’s sportiest providing, it has a screw-down crown, 120m water resistance, and a principally brushed 40mm case (a couple of fashions have 42.8mm instances). Whereas the model has explored gold fashions, virtually all Pioneers are chrome steel like this one. The Pioneer case, although, isn’t precisely rugged or sporty; it’s simply the closest Moser will get to both. As an alternative of the total polish and modern flowing curves of the Endeavour, it’s obtained angled lugs and grooving within the cavities on its sides. With a ten.6mm top, it wears very nicely, although it might really feel cumbersome on smaller wrists (it’s photographed on a 6.6-inch wrist). I assume the white strap is to place the dial because the yolk, and I suppose it’s pretty much as good a coloration as any for the watch.
(For these objecting that the Streamliner is Moser’s sportiest watch, I hear you, however you’re fallacious. Regardless of its related WR and the truth that it’s the one Moser on a bracelet, it’s nonetheless too refined in my thoughts to be thought-about a sports activities watch that I’d need on my wrist in adversarial situations. If I had each a Centre Seconds Pioneer and a Centre Seconds Streamliner, I’d all the time seize the Pioneer for an journey.)
One of many issues that made the lime green Endeavour so nice was that the dial texture mimicked that of a lime’s rind (deliberately or not). The Sunny-Facet Up is simply an upsetting shade of yellow, and one which doesn’t actually evoke Sunday mornings. Permitting that the model wished to make a yellow watch, why not lean into the egg title and make the dial go from an orangier yellow to white? The black periphery provides it a rancid look that’s laborious on each the eyes and the abdomen. Wanting previous the colour, the dial delivers what all of us love about Moser: skeletonized leaf arms, utilized markers, a sunburst fumé, and the model’s brand in a clear lacquer. It’s simply that there are two different dials on this actual watch (and a 3rd in 42.8mm) which are all far more engaging.
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Facet Up is powered by the in-house computerized HMC 201, which succeeded the HMC 200 a 12 months or so in the past. Whereas functionally similar to the HMC 200, the HMC 201 incorporates a extra skeletonized dial that exposes your entire gear practice, in addition to a extra skeletonized rotor. The motion delivers 72 hours of energy at 21,600 vph and is, in fact, completed properly with Moser’s signature double striping and anglage.
I feel Moser could also be higher served by leaving the meals watches to Studio Underd0g. The Pioneer Centre Seconds is a implausible watch: it’s sporty however nonetheless captures every part elegant that Moser is and does. I simply don’t assume this dial works nicely. Until you’re truly ingesting sufficient water, this dial is a pure coloration within the worst method. I suppose there’s a cause we don’t see many yellow dials that aren’t brilliant and matte or gloss completed, and the reason being that the majority of us already see this shade as soon as a day after we’re trying down, and we don’t need to see it on our wrist. Moser tried to do one thing enjoyable, and for as soon as, it missed. I’ll forgive them and hold coveting every part else they make. The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Facet Up is priced at $15,900 USD. For extra info, please go to the H. Moser & Cie. website.
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