Regardless of what a glance into my watch assortment would possibly suggest, I don’t put an enormous quantity of inventory into the idea of seasonal watches. Broadly talking, most watches can simply be worn any day of the 12 months, and in any cheap situations one would possibly encounter. Nonetheless, I’m not so blind as to disregard that some watches have a particular “vibe,” and for proof of that, you don’t should look additional than the brand new Deep Diver from Girard-Perregaux.
The Deep Diver, which Girard-Perregaux has just lately relaunched in collaboration with Bamford Watches, is the most recent in GP’s line of classic revival fashions — or “Legacy Editions” — and follows up on the considerably shocking success of the Casquette. Now, classic reissues are nothing new lately, however not like some friends, Girard-Perregaux has been cautious in diving into its again catalogue. The results of this restraint is that GP’s Legacy Editions are reliably sturdy releases, with every feeling like a uncommon deal with slightly than a checked field or drained contrivance.
The unique Deep Diver was launched in 1969, however continued to evolve for a couple of years earlier than being phased out of the GP lineup within the late ‘70s. The brand new Deep Diver particularly attracts on the ref. 9108 because it existed within the mid-‘70s. The Deep Diver has all the time been a classic mannequin I’ve had my eye on (I vividly keep in mind bidding on one on eBay after I was in school, solely to get blown out of the public sale on the final minute by somebody who clearly knew what they needed), however it was by no means a watch I anticipated to make any kind of fashionable comeback — though possibly I ought to have recognized higher.
Nonetheless, after I noticed the press launch for this watch in my inbox forward of the watch’s re-release, I used to be undoubtedly excited, and I used to be much more excited after I had the chance to spend a while with the Deep Diver on the day of its launch. The brand new Deep Diver hews remarkably near the unique — even sporting a classic execution of the Girard-Perregaux wordmark (which I hesitate to say is healthier than their present branding, and probably value a revisit). Even the daring coloring comes immediately from classic examples of the watch, though the usage of orange lume is exclusive to the trendy version, and the hues and color-blocking have been barely reworked.
Whereas the brand new watch is available in Grade 5 Titanium (versus chrome steel), the size have remained remarkably much like the unique. The cushion case measures 40.3mm vast, and the trendy launch is barely thinner than the classic, sitting at just below 14mm thick (not that I count on anybody will complain a few thinner dive watch). On my 7.5” wrist, the watch wears exceedingly effectively. The cushion case and brief lugs imply the watch is comparatively compact for its measurement, and on the rubber strap, the watch sits good and tight.
The Deep Diver comes with a pair of color-matched rubber straps, one in a deep navy, the opposite in a vibrant orange. The straps are comfy and versatile, and evoke the look of the classic bracelet. Whereas I’d like to have a titanium bracelet accessible as an choice with these watches, I feel for what’s clearly supposed to be a heat climate watch, having a pair of brightly coloured and cozy fast launch rubber straps is a superb compromise, and I’m certain I’d find yourself spending most of my time sporting this watch on the orange strap have been I to ever find yourself with considered one of these in my watch drawer.
As one would count on from a model like GP, the touchpoints on the Deep Diver are all immaculate. The 2 crowns are every straightforward to work together with, and whereas I typically favor exterior bezels from a purposeful standpoint, it’s exhausting to argue towards the super-compressor look of the Deep Diver. Ending is good-looking, with the radially brushed case contrasting properly with the polished lugs and 14-sided bezel for an easy however appropriately eye-catching look.
Contained in the watch is a GP03300 motion, a time and date choice used all through the Girard-Perregaux lineup. It’s a strong in-house choice with 46 hours of energy reserve and is vaguely seen by means of a navy blue show caseback.
One sticking level which will show exhausting to disregard with the Deep Diver is the worth. The 350-piece restricted version (which is simply accessible at Watches of Switzerland by means of June 15) is priced at $15,100. That’s clearly no small amount of cash, however it’s additionally a hotly contested phase of the dive watch market, alongside manufacturers like Blancpain and Rolex, which clearly have a lot stronger histories within the dive watch house. Girard-Perregaux has been out of the dive watch recreation for a minute, and if we ever see a much less restricted model of the Deep Diver, I’d like to see it priced barely extra competitively.
General, the Deep Diver is a exceptional reminder of how efficient classic revival could be for a model after they dip into the effectively judiciously. I walked out of my assembly pleasantly stunned that the watch was all the pieces it wanted to be; particularly, that it was enjoyable. The watch business is usually a fairly severe place, accurately when asking prospects to place down actual cash for costly, anachronistic toys, however it ought to by no means be extreme, and watches just like the Deep Diver are a fantastic reminder of simply how enjoyable these items could be, even after they’re taken critically. Girard-Perregaux
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