Did Watches & Wonders even occur if we don’t do a full staff “Finest Of” submit? Hopefully, we’ll by no means discover out. The decision on this yr’s present appears to be that it was stronger than anticipated, with loads of iterative releases, however iterative releases that individuals usually appear to love, and need to purchase (an excellent factor for the business at a difficult second, for certain). One factor that we get extra certain of yearly, although, is that it doesn’t matter what the consensus occurs to be on the present itself, there are at all times nice watches there, and our contributors and Editorial staff choose their favorites under.
Zach Weiss
The most effective experiences at Watches & Wonders is just being shocked. We frequently go into conferences having already learn the press releases, and thus just about know what to anticipate. Effectively, this yr I had the uncommon and enjoyable alternative to go in pretty blind to my assembly with Angelus as I merely hadn’t gone by means of their supplies but, and as a comparatively quiet “indie” (quotes as a result of they’re technically below the umbrella of Citizen, although clearly function independently), their watches hadn’t been splashed throughout my social media but. So, with contemporary eyes, I used to be introduced this yr’s essential novelty, a trio of remarkable chronographs that I haven’t stopped fascinated by since.
In 2023, Angelus debuted the Le Fabrique assortment by way of a collaboration with Massena LAB referred to as the Chronographe Médical. A religious recreation of an archival piece, this monopusher chronograph with a mixed pulsometer and respirometer index featured a really cool motion, the caliber A5000, manufactured by La Joux Perret (a sister model below Citizen). A small, skinny, handbook wound motion, it was designed by F.P. Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter for the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph within the late 90s. So a motion with some glorious provenance, in the event you’re into that sort of factor.
Whereas a conceptually very cool watch, I felt the design had a little bit of a visible flaw. As a result of motion, the lively seconds sub-dial may be very near the middle, which was exaggerated by placing it in a 39mm case. The unfavourable area between the sub-dial and the sting of the case appeared awkwardly massive and wasn’t reflective of the structure of the archival piece, which put the sub-dial about midway between the middle and the sting. The next yr, Angelus launched the Instrument de Vitesse, which was additionally 39mm, however received round this situation by eliminating sub-dials altogether.
Effectively, for 2025, the sub-dials are again, and they’re nonetheless very near the middle, however the case is now a extra logical 37mm, and the dial design makes higher use of the unfavourable area. Referred to as the Chronographe Télémètre, the dials characteristic a basic, early Twentieth-century design with utilized markers for the hours encircled by elapsed seconds/minutes and telemetre indexes, with an engraved trench between. The result’s a well-proportioned handbook chrono that’s 9.25mm thick, and regarded superb on my 6.75” wrist. Additionally, the sensation of the monopusher motion, which simply had the silkiest click on, was simply top-of-the-line I’ve ever felt (although the second greatest pusher on the present, bonus factors in the event you guess the primary). One of the simplest ways to explain these watches when it comes to appear and feel is an ideal hybrid of classic chronograph and trendy luxurious watch. That’s one thing a number of manufacturers strive for, however this did it.
There are three variations: a deep coppery salmon and a heat grey titanium, each with metal instances, and a heat white gold with a yellow gold case. The metal fashions are restricted to 25 items every and priced at 17,900 CHF, whereas the gold is proscribed to fifteen items priced at 32,300 CHF. Whereas clearly costly watches, the metal fashions had been priced way more moderately than I had anticipated (I used to be guessing they’d be 30 at the very least), probably due to a standard Watches & Wonders psychosis attributable to overexposure to 5 and six-figure watches. Angelus
Zach Kazan
I hate to be that man, however the greatest stuff I noticed throughout Watches & Wonders week that I actually need to write about are watches which can be protected by embargoes in the interim (and, notably, not a part of Watches & Wonders in any respect). I do know, I do know, no one likes a tease, however it’s true. I’ll say this, nevertheless: the watches I’m pondering of are watches which can be accessible (relying on the way you outline that time period, however fairly accessible) and would appear to have a powerful chance of being out there for anybody studying this to deal with and observe for themselves at a sure watch present taking place later this yr in a giant American metropolis.
OK, that annoying disclaimer out of the way in which, I’m prepared to select a favourite among the many watches I can speak about. Actually, there are many nice choices, a lot of which have been wolfed up by our contributors for this very article (I instituted a strict no repeats rule, and am making my choose after seeing everybody else’s, which is irritating one stage as a result of perhaps I’d have written in regards to the Grand Seiko that Christoph selected, however actually illuminates the variety and high quality of watches at this yr’s occasion). Early on within the present, at solely my second assembly, actually, I noticed a watch at Czapek that I’d later submit to Instagram with the caption “In all probability my favourite from Day 1.” And you recognize what? I’m nonetheless simply as enamored with the Antarctique Flying Tourbillon as I used to be on that first day.
I used to be shocked by how a lot I loved this look ahead to a couple of causes. First, I’m probably not a tourbillon man. They virtually at all times trigger an eyeroll after I hear a couple of new one, and I are inclined to suppose they exist primarily for the extremely rich to flex (boring!). Second, whereas I like Czapek quite a bit, built-in bracelet sports activities watches aren’t actually my factor both. However the Antarctique is rising on me – the extra typically I see them, the extra inclined I’m to say issues like “Effectively, if I had to purchase an built-in bracelet sports activities watch…”
This explicit Antarctique although is like none different, although. Made partially to rejoice the model’s anniversary, it has each a novel case development and a dial with an virtually overwhelming quantity of drama that makes it really feel really particular. The dial has a good looking guilloche sample of Czapek’s personal design they name “Singularité.” The sample presents as a sequence of repeating diamonds of accelerating width as they strategy the perimeter that appear to undulate and transfer together with your wrist and the sunshine. And then you definately’ve received the 2 towering bridges, one for barrel, the opposite for the gear prepare, that dominate the remainder of the dial. Once more, tons of depth, tons of motion, it’s simply extremely spectacular.
Nevertheless it was the distinctive case development that actually floored me, and represents one thing totally different for the Antarctique. You virtually don’t catch it at first, however the “case” is de facto only a midcase, with glass field sapphire crystals affixed to each side, which gives the look of a bezel-less design. The truth is, particulars just like the serial quantity and different figuring out info that you simply’d usually discover on the caseback are literally etched within the crystal mounted on the underside of the case as a result of there isn’t any precise caseback within the conventional sense. So the impact on the wrist is de facto that you simply’re sporting a flying tourbillon suspended in glass, held collectively by these outsized bridges. It’s gorgeous. Czapek
Meg Tocci
Amidst discussions of high-frequency actions and gladiator-style battles for the world’s thinnest tourbillon within the Coliseum of the Palexpo (at the very least, that’s how I think about Watches & Wonders from my place stateside), my consideration was on the previous, not the brand new. TAG Heuer’s revival of the System 1 fashions from the Eighties and 90s had been a colourful attain into the previous coupled with a contemporary spin.
The introduction of the Solargraph TH50-00 caliber is the most important change to those fan favorites, however there have been updates to the scale as properly. The brand new 38mm diameter (the unique was 35mm) will probably attraction to many, together with non-watch normies who’re simply followers of F1. The trendy diameter offers the watch a little bit of a special wrist profile than its predecessor, however practically forty years have handed since its unique launch in 1986. That appears like an inexpensive period of time for the watch to develop three millimeters.
Some early monitoring of public reception leads me to suppose this launch was a little bit of a blended bag, with some individuals heralding the nostalgic return of a 1980/90s favourite, and others questioning the value level. Personally, I feel evaluating these references to the MoonSwatch or Swatchpains of current years is an apples/oranges debate. For one, the Solargraph TH50-00 isn’t disposable. The model says it has a operating time of ten months with no gentle publicity, and with some daylight, ought to work for upwards of fifteen years. Three of 9 new releases are composed of TH-Polylight, a bio-composite, and that might be the idea for the MoonSwatch comparisons. However the different six watches are chrome steel. Merely put, these are enjoyable, colourful watches that are supposed to stick round for some time.
I admire these new F1 releases as a result of it highlights an necessary side of Watches and Wonders, however one which’s generally neglected: watch fanatics can admire haute horology and wild problems from afar, however generally, the power of the everyman to instantly take part is essential. TAG Heuer
Alec Dent
I’m a sucker for a standard costume watch, and there are few manufacturers on the market that may do one in addition to Laurent Ferrier, as proven, as soon as once more, by his newest launch at Watches & Wonders: the Laurent Ferrier Traditional Auto Horizon.
The LFCAH is a simple tackle a costume watch. It has a curvy 40mm case silhouette — the hallmark of Lauren Ferrier’s Traditional line — a seconds subdial, and a date window on the 3 o’clock. That is the second Traditional Auto mannequin, however whereas the primary was produced in a dusky tan, this new model has a placing ice-blue dial. It’s stunning to have a look at, and the contrasting white gold needle-point indices, a black crosshair motif within the middle, and an elongated sloping date window full the look. The exhibition caseback reveals a superbly completed motion that oozes luxurious simply as a lot because the entrance of the watch.
It’s thrilling to see Laurent Ferrier proceed the Traditional Auto line, and I’m trying ahead to seeing what’s subsequent within the line. (Possibly, I dare to dream, barely smaller variations?) Laurent Ferrier
Christoph McNeill
In case you’ve ever learn something by me, my selection for my favourite piece from Watches & Wonders 2025 shall be no shock. Like final yr, I can’t assist however choose the most recent providing from Grand Seiko, the SLGB003 Spring Drive U.F.A. from the Evolution 9 Assortment. Whereas final yr’s choose featured a hi-beat handbook wind motion with 80 hour energy reserve, this yr’s gem showcases their newly designed Spring Drive caliber 9RB2 motion, a masterful achievement in accuracy.
The brand new 9RB2 motion, by means of enhancements in design, manufacturing and processing, achieves an accuracy of +/- 20 seconds per yr! Not per thirty days, however per yr, which is just an astonishing feat and presently, based on Grand Seiko, essentially the most correct motion powered by a mainspring. In case you hadn’t already guessed, U.F.A. stands for “Extremely Advantageous Accuracy”, a properly deserved designation. The motion is after all completed superbly, and may be seen by means of the sapphire exhibition again, together with the 72 hour energy reserve indicator.
The case has the basic Grammar of Design options we’ve come to count on from Grand Seiko because the 1960’s, with broad flat planes, razor sharp edges and a mixture of mirror and brushed finishes. The case is fabricated from Seiko’s Excessive-intensity Titanium, which I’ve to say is rising on me, though I’d relatively there was a stainless-steel choice. The silvery white dial is after all a magnificence, with a texture and light-weight blue hue that’s made to replicate the frost lined timber noticed through the winter within the Kirigamine Highlands outdoors the Shinshu Watch Studio in Japan the place the Grand Seiko watches are handmade.
Like all Grand Seikos, the ending and a focus to element are second to none, and with the addition of this new Spring Drive U.F.A. motion and its outrageous accuracy, you really have an distinctive watch. With an MSRP of a tad over $10,000, I really feel like this superb timepiece is, dare I say it, a discount! Grand Seiko
Griffin Bartsch
It’s been a tricky century for the costume watch. The previous couple of a long time have seen manufacturers — particularly on the excessive finish — shift their entry-level away from the basic two or three–hand method and in direction of sports activities watches, typically of the built-in bracelet selection. However costume watches are again, and in a giant method. Okay, certain, I’m not dumb sufficient to recommend that costume watches are poised to supplant their sportier cousins, however it does appear that what very just lately felt like a written-off class might have discovered a second wind, and in the event you walked into Palexpo this yr trying to spend someplace within the neighborhood of $50k on a high-quality, time-only or time-and-date costume watch, you had an excellent yr.
Whether or not or not it’s Zenith’s revival of the Calibre 135 within the new G.F.J. or Patek’s newest Calatrava, which appears to have grabbed hearts and minds in a giant method, Laurent Ferrier’s newest providing, or the now-bracelet-clad Rolex 1908, the costume watch fanatic has to have come out of Watches & Wonders feeling spoilt for selection. Nonetheless, and for nearly as good as all these choices are, my favourite new entrant into this class must be the L.U.C. Quattro Mark IV in Platinum.
The Quattro has been round within the L.U.C. assortment for a very long time however regardless of its technical promise and benefits (specifically the prolonged energy reserve yielded by its four-barrel design), I’ve by no means a lot linked with watches sporting the ‘Quattro’ identify. Even the latest Quattro, the Quattro Spirit 25 — an objectively cool jump-hour watch with a Grand Feu enamel dial — didn’t worm its method into my coronary heart in the way in which many L.U.C. watches by Chopard have over time. However the Quattro Mark IV is totally different — it is a watch I might love.
There’s nothing about this watch I don’t like. The grained, ice-blue dial is perhaps my favourite of the present and contrasts splendidly with the sharpness of the dial furnishings. The stacked date and small seconds sub-dials at six o’clock add simply sufficient intrigue to the dial facet of the watch whereas shifting the facility reserve indicator to the motion facet prevents overcrowding whereas nonetheless emphasizing the watch’s standout characteristic. That is a kind of watches I simply can’t get out of my head and is a good reminder of all the things Chopard does proper — and so they do quite a bit proper. Chopard
Tommy DeMauro
With a plethora of latest releases on our plates, I truly took to admiring the brand new Piaget Andy Warhol dials relatively than a completely new piece. As a Pittsburgh space native and 20th century popular culture historian, Warhol will at all times have a gentle spot in my coronary heart. The Piaget Black Tie 15102 was initially launched in 1972 however acquired its nickname on account of Andy’s frequent sporting of the mannequin. What made the 15102 initially stand aside was its beautiful––and mighty huge––cushion case and simplistic dial design. In November of 2024, Piaget determined to breathe new life into the mannequin by releasing the Andy Warhol Clou de Paris reissue. Quick ahead to this busy and thrilling month within the watch business, and Piaget has determined to run it again with a couple of new, eye-catching variants.
Supplied in both 18k white or rose gold cushion instances, these new fashions characteristic opal, tiger’s eye, inexperienced meteorite, and white meteorite dials. The end on the dauphine handset matches the both white or rose gold tone of the case. These new variants are powered by the Piaget cal.501P1 computerized motion with 23 jewels and a 40-hour energy reserve. Measuring in at 45mm throughout and 43mm lengthy, it’s a chunk that’ll definitely have wrist presence even with out the daring and distinctive dials. Piaget gives a wide range of leather-based band choices to match or conflict with the dial and instances’ colours.
By far my favourite variant must be the opal dial with blue baguette-cut sapphire stones within the bezel. There’s one thing extremely charming about opal and its skill to replicate and refract gentle. I’ve at all times questioned why watch firms don’t make the most of this valuable stone for dials extra typically. The inexperienced and blue tones work extremely properly collectively and provides off an virtually earthly look. The three rows of sapphires are certainly a bit gaudy for my liking, however they’re comparatively welcome additions to an already vibrant watch. Like a lot of the Watches & Wonders releases, these Andy Warhol variants will sadly not be present in my watch field anytime quickly (until one among you wish to make a hefty donation to my Broke Watch Collector Fund), however I merely can not not admire them as a wristwatch collector and lover. The value has but to be introduced, however judging by the $60,000 USD price ticket of the fashions launched in November, I’d say this shall be a chunk most of us should admire from afar. Piaget
Devin Pennypacker
In case you tuned into our Watches & Wonders Livestream, are one of many 5 individuals who view my Instagram tales, or despatched me a DM asking for my take, my choose of the present won’t shock you. My favourite launch from this yr’s Watches & Wonders is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold on the gorgeous Milanese mesh bracelet. A love letter to the Reverso penned by an skilled poet, this mannequin is pure romance. Heat hues and wealthy textures exude from the weighty pink-gold on each side, rendering time telling an afterthought as you admire its each angle.
On the time of writing, I cannot communicate to the piece’s consolation on my wrist or the way it feels in hand (for that, take a look at Kat Shoulders’ pick write-up here), although I’m trying ahead to experiencing it on my wrist very quickly. Nonetheless, that has not stopped me from rotating their digital 3D mannequin spherical and round, letting the artificial gentle supply weave by means of its texture. I had joked that this was the yr of the classic bracelet, although this can be the perfect instance of that being true. Mixing into the case, this bracelet brings natural curves to a vintage-inspired piece full of straight traces. In my eyes, being paired with a Monoface relatively than a extra difficult piece elevates the design much more. It makes it one thing of a press release jewellery piece with added performance. I can simply envision the wearer hiding the face to disclose the elegantly engraved case again, turning the watch right into a finely crafted I.D. bracelet of types. The grained dial is a press release, the pink gold on pink gold design language is a press release, and the bracelet is a press release combining to echo boisterous intercourse attraction.
I might wax poetic in regards to the development and supplies advert nauseam. Sadly, on this transient love letter, I don’t have time to dig into the difficult case development or the handbook caliber 822. I do, nevertheless, need to applaud Jaeger-LeCoultre for not simply introducing an intensive assortment of spectacular but, albeit a bit unobtainable, Reverso fashions. In case you had been paying consideration, you may need additionally seen {that a} pair of newly sized Monoface fashions snuck into the gathering with dimensions just like the enduring unique. These two now stand because the entry level to the larger-sized Reverso assortment. It’s good to see the model servicing each ends of its bigger assortment concurrently throughout a present the place you usually solely obtain essentially the most consideration with a teeth-gritting flex. Jaeger-LeCoultre
Elodie Townsend
Yellow is my favourite coloration—I’ve a yellow bedspread, a yellow water bottle, and yellow accents throughout my residence. I want my GTI was yellow. So when Oris introduced the brand new yellow Massive Crown Pointer Date, I practically handed out. I’d already had a Massive Crown Pointer Date on my “grail” checklist—the bronze and burgundy mannequin—however this new yellow mannequin blew all the things else out of the water instantly. It additionally sports activities a good-looking, basic Oris bracelet; weirdly, I’ve by no means owned a watch with a correct bracelet, as a result of I discover leather-based straps to be essentially the most snug choice for my wrist, so the potential of lastly having a fancier-feeling watch was tempting.
The brand new Massive Crown fashions all characteristic a 40mm metal case, which makes it a really democratic watch size-wise. I put on watches from 37mm as much as 42mm, in order that 40mm center floor is good—I’m additionally very fussy about consolation, and having tried on an Oris Massive Crown earlier than, I knew that these new fashions would have the identical satisfying-but-light heft to them. Lastly, the pointer date complication is simply too charming to disregard—and whereas the yellow mannequin has the usual arrow relatively than the crescent featured on different Massive Crowns, it maintains that distinctive styling. As with all Oris watches, the Sellita motion and iconic crimson rotor may be noticed by means of the clear case again.
Nonetheless, I couldn’t justify the value. Fortunate for me, nevertheless, a Topper buyer had just lately returned a model new yellow Massive Crown because of a since-buffed-out scratch on the bezel, giving the watch a “pre-owned” low cost. Cue some household meddling on behalf of my birthday (all of which was carried out with out my information or consent, might I add) and I now have a surprising new Massive Crown on my wrist, simply over every week after its massive debut in Geneva. One of the best element I’ve discovered is the slight metallic flake to the dial—one thing that isn’t conveyed by any press images, including an additional step of dimension to an already eye-catching design. I couldn’t be happier—although I ought to most likely cease watching it whereas driving. Oris
Nathan Schultz
If I had been to summarize Watches & Wonders 2025 in a single sentence I’d say that the majority manufacturers catered to fanatics by means of calculated iteration whereas Rolex uncharacteristically rocked the boat with the discharge of an historic motion housed in a case no one requested for. Whereas Grand Seiko used the annual occasion to lastly settle for the long-standing invitation to hitch the quick-adjust clasp membership and Patek unveiled a Cubitus sized for human wrists, Rolex determined that 2025 was the yr to hitch the current (type of) built-in bracelet pattern with the Land-Dweller. As a finances aware collector that doesn’t know the distinction between a Kermit and Hulk, I used to be caught off guard by Rolex being the model that pulled at my horological coronary heart this yr. However hey, Watches & Wonders predictions are not often appropriate.
There are a pair causes I’m excited in regards to the Land-Dweller, and it might take years earlier than their influence is actually felt. Acknowledging that built-in bracelets misplaced their attract for a lot of collectors across the identical time we had been nonetheless in Barbenheimer mania, the actual star of the present is the Dynapulse direct impulse escapement. It’s laborious to do the caliber justice with out intensive rambling (you’ll be able to learn extra about it here), however between the twin silicon wheels that fight that pesky friction drawback and the truth that it’s arguably essentially the most substantial massive scale motion innovation since Omega’s adoption of the Co-Axial escapement, stating that the ramifications are more likely to be vital could be an understatement. Including to the technological buzz, Rolex went in opposition to the grain (very out of character for the model) by using the motion in a completely new assortment. Opinions on the aesthetics and identify apart (I genuinely just like the seems to be however can’t defend the identify), it’s refreshing to see what’s arguably essentially the most influential model take a large threat. Seeing extra manufacturers embrace threat over secure iteration is my greatest want as an fanatic, and I hope Rolex’s massive swing will trickle down and encourage manufacturers in all worth factors to step out of their iterative consolation zones.
Any sincere dialog of the Land-Dweller must acknowledge the principally unfavourable sentiment dominating the remark part of each YouTube video discussing its launch. Positive, it does appear a bit late to hitch the built-in bracelet fad. And no, the honeycomb dial sample that extra carefully resembles a soccer internet isn’t for everybody. However as counter factors, the now-iconic case fashion slowly trickled by means of varied manufacturers all through everything of the 70s into the 80s, a timeline that makes the Land-Dweller’s launch appear much less delayed contemplating the PRX was re-released lower than 5 years in the past. And, if Rolex was going to take their candy time leaping on that bandwagon, I feel a generic dial and bezel would have generated much more warranted criticism than these ignoring the 12:00 brand and three:00 date window to argue that the two-numeral structure lacks steadiness.
As we proceed to digest the discharge, I’m personally simply as excited in regards to the future potentialities as I’m in regards to the present choices. Find it irresistible or hate it, Rolex has a brand new template and a brand new motion, each of that are certain to be expanded upon. Watches & Wonders predictions for 2026 and past will probably embody Land-Dwellers with extra universally palatable dials and an expanded use of the motion in different collections. And who is aware of, time will inform if these predictions are proper. Till then, I’m going to proceed to benefit from the shock of being smitten with a model outdoors of my wheelhouse and appreciating a launch that finds a commendable steadiness of threat and innovation in an atmosphere when these qualities may be in brief provide. Rolex
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