The Appealing Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Monopusher

For a retro-styled chronograph, the wonder lies in mechanical and historic particulars. With the brand new Chronographe Télémètre, Angelus once more reaches into its storied archives to recreate the previous and distil its essence right into a remarkably contemporary and undeniably refined timepiece. The most recent addition to the La Fabrique collection, the Chronographe Télémètre debuts in three variations: two in stainless-steel with both a heat rose-bronze or cool titanium-grey dial and a extra unique version in 18k yellow gold that includes a shiny white, enamel-inspired dial. All three are produced in minimal numbers, 25 items for every metal mannequin and 15 for the gold, although it’s not rarity alone that defines this watch, however somewhat its concord of design, heritage, and hand-wound motion.

The Chronographe Télémètre is the newest creation to suit into the La Fabrique assortment, which already consists of the Instrument de Vitesse (in different colours) and the Chronographe Médical made with Massena LAB. Opposite to most watches made by Angelus, such as the modern Chronodate, the watches from this assortment are all about reviving the model’s huge archives, an period when Angelus was often known as one of many masters of the chronograph. With the Chronographe Télémètre, Angelus takes inspiration from the Nineteen Forties and Nineteen Fifties, and particularly chronographs produced for pilots.

At 37mm in diameter, the Chronographe Télémètre occupies a candy, seldom-seen center floor in up to date watchmaking. It is usually the smallest case in Angelus’ present lineup, a deliberate echo of mid-century chronographs. Measuring solely 9.25mm thick (a rarity in fashionable chronograph manufacturing), the case is slim and stylish, with sharply faceted lugs that twist and plunge dynamically, giving the watch an air of delicate refinement. A box-shaped sapphire crystal provides classic appeal, whereas anti-reflective coatings on either side guarantee legibility. Water resistance is 30m, however leaping in a pool actually isn’t the principle goal of those watches…

A single pusher built-in into the fluted crown at 3 o’clock replaces the basic two-pusher structure of most fashionable chronographs, and is in-built the identical means because the Instrument de Vitesse. It governs all three chronograph features (start-stop-reset), providing a cleaner aesthetic and a tactile throwback to the instrument watches of yesterday, whereas the clear caseback anchors the watch within the current, with a view of the good-looking, traditional-looking motion inside.

Every of the three dials discovered on the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre is a masterclass in texture and steadiness. The central space is finely grained, framed by a satin-brushed flange that homes a telemeter scale. The telemeter scale, graduated in kilometres, is used to calculate distances primarily based on the velocity of sound: begin the chronograph if you see an occasion (lightning or explosion) and cease it if you hear or really feel it (thunder or shock wave). Although hardly ever used as we speak, it stays an enchanting and poetic reminder of the chronograph’s origins as a instrument of measurement and survival somewhat than a sporty accent.

Encircling the utilized hour markers, a crisp minutes/seconds monitor is separated by a elegant, concave ring. Snailed subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock present symmetry with out visible overload, serving because the 30-minute totaliser and working seconds, respectively.

The titanium-grey dial exudes fashionable minimalism, whereas the rose-bronze model leans into nostalgic heat. With its white-nickel dial, the gold-cased mannequin glows with an magnificence paying homage to outdated enamel. In each case, utilized Arabic numerals and baton hour markers, both in black rhodium or 3N gold, provide readability and definition, and the leaf-shaped fingers full the vintage-modern aesthetic. And whereas these watches nonetheless undergo from the problem of centrally-positioned sub-dials (inherent to the motion), Angelus has right here performed an incredible job of creating the dials balanced and nicely animated.

The Chronographe Télémètre is powered by the hand-wound calibre A5000, which we defined in our in-depth review of the Angelus Instrument de Vitesse. Designed and manufactured in-house by La Joux-Perret, a sister firm of Angelus, this calibre brings us again to the late Nineteen Eighties with an organization named THA or Methods Horlogères Appliquées (owned by Journe, Flageollet and Halter). The unique motion is generally often known as the calibre 045MC by Cartier, which used to energy the 1999 Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. The rights to supply this motion have been then bought to Jaquet S.A., which modified proprietor and have become La Joux-Perret, and that is how this motion, conceived virtually three a long time in the past, discovered its means into the case of a contemporary Angelus watch.

This mono-pusher chronograph motion is as elegant in execution as it’s in operate, and it suits the 37 mm case completely, bodily and philosophically. The motion includes a column wheel and an oscillating pinion, an answer invented and patented by Edouard Heuer in 1887. This method is technically pretty easy, efficient and doesn’t eat a lot area, making the entire motion solely 4.20mm in thickness. It beats at 21,600 vibrations/hour and delivers a 42-hour energy reserve. The ending is nothing in need of artisanal: bridges and mainplate are adorned with a wealthy 3N gold end, with Geneva stripes and round graining. The chronograph elements, plated in palladium, stand out in distinction. Chamfered edges, polished screws, and uncovered wheels spherical out a motion that reveals its mechanical poetry.

Every model comes fitted with a colour-matched calfskin strap, metal blue for the gray dial, sage inexperienced for the rose, and anthracite gray for the gold version, closed by a pin buckle in matching metallic, engraved with the Angelus emblem. The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre is priced at CHF 32,300 (incl. VAT) for the yellow gold model (15 items) and CHF 17,900 (incl. VAT) for both metal version (every 25 items).