The Salmon Art-Deco Cartier Tank Américaine in Platinum

The name Tank at Cartier means way over only a watch… It’s a whole vary of watches, all distinguished by some design components first outlined by the so-called Tank Normale of 1917. From there, the gathering expanded to dozens of designs, such because the Tank Louis Cartier, the Cintrée, the Française and the Asymétrique, simply to call a couple of. In 2023, Cartier relaunched the Tank Américaine, a Tank watch with an elongated and curved rectangular case, first launched in 1989. The return was made with ultra-classic variations in metal or gold, with white dials. However some months in the past, with out making a lot noise about it, the model unveiled a pair of valuable variations with Artwork-Deco sector dials, together with this good-looking platinum-salmon model. 

The Tank Américaine may not be the preferred mannequin within the model’s assortment – the Louis Cartier holds the title. It’s additionally a watch that may, in a manner, simply be confused with the Tank Cintrée. But it surely shouldn’t. Regardless of having a basic Nineteen Twenties-30s look, the Tank Américaine – which has been explored in detail here – is a reasonably current creation, first made in 1989. The design is modelled after that of the Tank Cintrée, albeit with bolder dimensions, bigger brancards on the perimeters and a much less curved general profile. The Américaine is thicker and wider than its inspiration, and although the design has been tweaked over time, it remained largely unchanged – even after the 2023 update. The refreshed computerized model is a bit smaller than earlier than, leaner and fewer curved. The dials have been additionally streamlined with a finely brushed background changing the stamped guilloche sample of the older versions. However importantly, the massive mechanical mannequin was now not hand-wound however computerized as an alternative.

Quick ahead to some months in the past, once we have been launched to a brand new model of the Cartier Tank Américaine LM, with out realizing a lot concerning the watch aside from what I had in my fingers… a platinum model with a completely beautiful Artwork Deco, sector-styled salmon dial… Effectively, now that was one thing that speaks to me, being a fan of salmon and sector dials – look at this, you’ll understand… Now we all know every little thing about it, and I wished to rapidly introduce the watch and provides my tackle it.

In essence, this new model (in addition to its yellow gold with anthracite dial sister, reference WGTA0295) is nothing greater than a dial and materials animation primarily based on the 2023 refreshed Cartier Tank Américaine LM Automatic. In all equity, and whereas I can have some love for some Tank fashions (often the shorter or more unusual models), the redesigned Américaine left me chilly – so did the outdated mannequin anyway. Perhaps it’s the lengthy case, the marginally bulbous flanks, the somewhat sterile dial of the basic model, or very presumably the mixture of all three, however it didn’t depart me with a terrific impression. I don’t have something in opposition to it, however I don’t have something particular for it both.

Issues modified after I seen this new Artwork Deco salmon dial… I’ve mentioned it on a number of events however a special dial color or format can drastically change the attraction of a watch. This platinum Américaine is the right instance of such a change. As mentioned, technically talking, we’re trying on the identical watch as earlier than. This implies a slim 24.4mm case with a tall(ish) measurement of 44.4mm – it’s not notably lengthy on paper, however it feels elongated even on the wrist. Don’t be fooled by the scale, it has a extra stable wrist presence than anticipated.

What’s totally different listed here are two issues. One, the case is made from 950 platinum, including some weight to the watch – a sure sense of luxurious for some collectors – whereas not making it luxurious first… That’s one thing I like about platinum, a kind of “if you realize, you realize” attraction. The one clue that the watch is made from valuable metallic is the pink ruby cabochon on the crown, an indicator of platinum watches at Cartier. As with all Américaine, the brancards on the facet are rounded and polished, the perimeters are brushed, and the connecting half between the lugs can also be vertically brushed. At 8.6mm in thickness, it’s additionally a reasonably slim watch that may actually work in a sartorial setting, whereas the stable caseback is suitable on this context.

However then, there’s the dial. And it’s the place this version marks essentially the most factors. A drastic evolution in comparison with the basic silvery-white, brushed dial of the basic model, this one opts for an Artwork-Deco, extremely geometric and completely matches the form of the case. And to make it even higher, there’s this wealthy, two-tone salmon color that distinction so nicely with the chilly metallic really feel of the platinum case.

The dial has a number of finishes and sectors, because it ought to. The central half is freed from all frills, solely displaying the Cartier signature over a matte floor. Then, there’s an oblong hour chapter ring with a radial-brushed end and a succession of Roman numerals and markers, all linked to the outlines – making it extremely graphic and, largely, it does create a coherent really feel with the form of the dial opening. Lastly, the outer part additionally has a matte end with a railroad minute observe. As soon as once more, I feel this works a lot better than the oval-styled minute track of the standard model. As well as, it’s additionally extra related to place the minute observe on the periphery, the minute hand being longer than the hour hand. Basic Cartier sword fingers in blued metal point out the hours and minutes.

Contained in the case is the pretty new Calibre 1899 MC, a small computerized motion beating at 4Hz and delivering a adequate 40-hour energy reserve. As typically with Cartier watches, the motion isn’t precisely essentially the most engaging half, however it does the job. The watch is worn on a burgundy alligator strap with a white gold (not platinum) folding clasp.

There’s no denying that this watch is good-looking. Its dial appears extremely good over the platinum case, and the general feeling is elegant and barely quirky, but it performs on basic watchmaking vibes. I nonetheless assume that the Tank Américaine lacks a little bit of the refined magnificence of the Tank Cintrée, however the latter is simply obtainable with openworked actions or in restricted editions – such as the 2023 Tank Cintrée Réédition in platinum – and at the next value vary. This Artwork-Deco Américaine is thus a terrific different that’s simpler to accumulate, and it does add a terrific sense of favor with its sector salmon dial. Out there now from Cartier boutiques at EUR 25,600 or USD 23,400. Simply notice that these should not restricted editions however restricted manufacturing fashions that received’t keep indefinitely within the catalogue. Extra particulars at www.cartier.com.