Case
For a sports activities watch, 39mm is the goldilocks case dimension for me. It’s large enough to stay legible and have a strong presence on my wrist, however not so large that it will get in the way in which. The case measures in at 39mm large, 12.1mm thick, and 46mm lug-to-lug. Whereas the scale make quite a lot of sense on paper, they translate into metallic even higher. Grand Seiko will get some flak for his or her case sizes, however that’s totally on their mechanical motion watches. I believe quite a lot of this discourse I’ve seen through the years is from individuals who might not have had the prospect to truly strive on a Grand Seiko. They do such an excellent job of shaping the instances so that they hug your wrist. When considered from the aspect, you’ll be able to see that the mid case slopes down in direction of your wrist the nearer you get to the lugs. When in comparison with one thing just like the Tudor Black Bay 58, you’ll be able to actually see how way more curvature the GS has in its case. Whereas they’re each 39mm sports activities watches, I consider the SBGN003 has the sting by way of consolation.
It’s not simply the curvature that the case has that makes it so cool, however the way in which it’s completed as effectively. There’s a mixture of brushed and zaratsu polished finishes on the watch. Grand Seiko’s zaratsu sprucing is a course of that achieves a particularly excessive polish that maintains a razor sharp line between the hairline brushed and zaratsu polished surfaces. You’ll be able to see this in motion on the case of the SBGN003 on the highest of the lugs. As a substitute of a extremely small polished chamfer, they’ve taken it up a notch and polished a large swath of the lugs that carries by means of the crown guards and onto the opposite aspect of the watch. It’s simply the correct quantity of polish to provide the watch a bit of shine with out going overboard. The mounted 24-hour GMT bezel is brushed and engraved with numerical hour markings each two hours. They’re crammed with a black enamel to boost legibility. Whereas the zaratsu has its justifiable share of scratches and dings from heavy use through the years, it nonetheless shines in a manner in contrast to the opposite watches in my assortment.
Dial + Palms
Razor sharp and exact are the 2 phrases that come to thoughts. Whenever you take a more in-depth take a look at the dial, you simply preserve noticing delicate particulars that can make you surprise how they’re even doable to realize. From afar, the gloss black dial is comparatively easy, however it’s performed so effectively. The Grand Seiko brand is printed at 12 in silver, and is balanced out by “GMT” in orange simply above 6 o’clock. The dial has printed hash marks for every minute, with an expertly crafted utilized index at each hour. Up at 12, you’ll discover the boldest of the indices, whereas a framed date show with dial-matching date wheel resides at three, and two barely extra pronounced indices at 6 and 9. Every utilized index is a murals. The faceted edges are polished to a excessive shine, whereas the highest has a particularly finely grooved floor. In direction of the periphery of every index is a small inlay of Lumibrite lume that helps you inform the time when the lights exit.
The hour and minute hand appear like they might legitimately lower you if dealt with. Extra faceted edges with excessive polish and exact ending. The highest floor of the primary arms are brushed, which gives a pleasant distinction to the polished arms that end in a very easy to learn dial. The GMT hand is comparatively easy compared, however the orange actually pops towards the inky black dial.
One of many issues that received me over about this watch is the ending on the dial and arms. They’re actually exceptional. I additionally love how the sapphire crystal protects the dial whereas the remainder of the case and bracelet will get a bit extra banged up from put on. I’ve been sporting this watch for the reason that Summer time of 2021 and it’s picked up a justifiable share of scratches and knocks. The juxtaposition of the worn case and pristine dial actually do it for me, and undoubtedly contribute to me wanting to maintain the watch in my assortment.
Motion
I really feel like quartz doesn’t actually get a good shot. After all it’s cool that there’s a bit of mechanical machine in your wrist, however the way in which that Grand Seiko approaches quartz deserves a re-evaluation should you’ve written it off. First, simply take a look at the motion itself. It’s completed like a mechanical motion and constructed by hand. That is NOT the quartz motion you’d discover in one thing manner manner cheaper. Steel plates, machined screws, and a sealed building make for a sturdy, built-to-last motion. Contained in the SBGN003 is the 9F86 which sports activities a GMT perform and quick-set hour hand. Its claimed accuracy is +/- 10 seconds per 12 months, which I’ve discovered to be spot-on within the practically 4 years I’ve owned the watch. It’s oddly satisfying to pop up time.gov and see that your watch continues to be inside a second of the atomic clock regardless of setting it a number of months in the past. Another cool issues in regards to the 9F is that the date modifications instantaneously. There’s no in-between, it simply snaps into place. One thing Seiko calls the “Backlash Auto-Alter Mechanism” ensures that the seconds hand lands precisely on every seconds marker, once more a small element that provides refinement that you simply simply don’t see on lesser quartz actions.
The 9F86 is a “true” GMT with a leaping foremost hour hand. Unscrew the crown to the primary place and you may leap the hour hand forwards or backwards to accommodate to your new time zone. On a “true” GMT (which truthfully I believe is a bit of offensive to all of the caller GMTs on the market), the 24-hour hand stays set to your private home time zone whereas the primary hand set modifications in line with the native time. You may also use the leaping hour to right the date when shifting between 28, 30, and 31 day-long months as to not disturb the time. One of many issues that I like in regards to the watch is the accuracy, and the truth that you’ll be able to modify it to numerous time zones or right the date with out stopping the seconds hand is so cool.
One of many craziest issues that bought me on the 9F actions is that Grand Seiko grows their very own quartz crystals in their very own equipment to make sure that they’re as top quality as doable. Every crystal is then aged in a managed temperature and humidity surroundings and subjected to a managed excessive voltage to make sure stability and efficiency. Every crystal is then paired with an built-in circuit that’s tuned to every particular person crystal, guaranteeing that every motion is tuned to its personal particular crystal. It truthfully appears like one thing extra at dwelling in a sci-fi novel, however it’s occurring contained in the motion on my wrist.
Straps + Wearability
The SBGN003 ships on a stainless-steel bracelet that’s 19mm large on the lugs. The bracelet is straight by means of to the clasp with no taper. It’s wonderful and cozy, however I actually don’t have an excessive amount of to say about it. One factor that may bug somebody is the entire lack of micro adjustment on a Grand Seiko clasp. Whereas the clasp could be very low profile, it has no strategy to make incremental modifications. You’re left to make use of the included half hyperlink and hope that you will discover a match you’ll be able to reside with. Fortunately, the mix of hyperlinks I’ve on there suits fairly effectively, however outcomes might fluctuate. Through the years, I’ve thrown it on a nato once in a while, however it often finally ends up again on the bracelet fairly rapidly. I did have a really uncommon double spring bar blowout with the watch on a nato, and I believe that sort of soured me on the entire expertise. Professional tip: don’t elevate a stroller, a child, and a bag stuffed with stuff whereas on a Disney shuttle bus with a too tight nato in your wrist within the Florida warmth.
Whereas the case form and dimension are nice, the burden is spot-on, and actually simply every part about this watch works for me, one of many issues that makes it wearable is the accuracy and comfort of the motion. As my life as a Dad to 2 younger children has turn out to be busier and extra sophisticated, I can actually admire an excellent trying watch that’s snug on my wrist with a particularly correct motion that wants nothing aside from the occasional date change.
Conclusion
Regardless of dropping the fallacious reference quantity within the Worn & Wound Team’s Most Worn Watches of the Year 2024 video (boy, I actually hope any individual paid for that blunder), the SBGN003 stays probably the most worn watches in my assortment. Whereas I’d like to say that I’ve used the GMT perform whereas jet setting throughout the globe, I believe the watch solely made it out of Jap Time as soon as. The type of the case, consolation on the bracelet, and the truth that it’s at all times set to the best time makes me attain for it most of the time.
Whereas I nonetheless have a severe tender spot for my Speedmaster, there are some days the place it’s simply simpler to throw on the SBGN003. I’m not an enormous mover of watches, however I’ve gotten the bug to do some consolidation just lately, and this one merely isn’t up for consideration, it’s within the assortment for the lengthy haul. Oh, and only for kicks I made a decision to load up time.gov to see how the watch was doing. I final set it on November third 2024 for daylight financial savings time and the watch is at the moment working 2 seconds quick. Not too shabby. Grand Seiko
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