One other Friday, one other record! This week, we have a look at the Rolex Milgauss, the oddball engineer’s watch that first got here out within the Fifties, similar to a lot of The Crown’s classics. However not like the Submariner and the GMT-Grasp, the Milgauss hasn’t all the time been a part of the model’s assortment since then. It’s a part of the rationale we couldn’t make this a listing of 5 Rolex Milgauss references just because there aren’t. Technically, there are solely 4 Milgauss reference numbers. However most of you’ll know that the dial variations will nonetheless permit us to choose our favourite 5 Milgauss fashions. Let’s discover out extra!
It’s no secret that engineer’s watches have by no means been the trade’s largest sellers. However these timepieces most actually attraction to lovers. Their typically quirky seems and antimagnetic properties make engineer’s watches beloved amongst collectors worldwide. There’s something utilitarian and virtually über-technical that appeals to followers of mechanical watches. Probably the most well-known examples are, no doubt, the IWC Ingenieur, the Omega Railmaster, and the Rolex Milgauss. All three have a wealthy historical past courting again to the Fifties, and they’re celebrated for his or her mixture of seems and useful properties. That is a part of why we’d like to see the Rolex Milgauss make a comeback. However whereas we’re ready for that, let’s have a look at 5 Milgauss fashions that present the brilliance of this outlier within the Rolex catalog.
Rolex Milgauss ref. 6543
The primary Rolex Milgauss ref. 6543 was supposedly launched in 1954/55. Some sources, nonetheless, state that it was later, so the introduction yr appears to be a little bit of a thriller. As most of you’ll know, the title comes from the French phrase “mille,” that means “thousand,” and the phrase “gauss,” a scientific unit for magnetism.
The primary Milgauss resembles a Rolex Submariner however has a unique dial and dauphine palms. As you’ll be able to see, the watch didn’t have the lightning-bolt-shaped hand but, and the rotating bezel featured a Submariner-style 60-minute insert. The honeycomb dial had triangular hour markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, instantly altering the watch’s character.
Picture: Christie’s
One other huge distinction in comparison with different Rolex fashions was hidden contained in the 38mm stainless-steel case with an odd 19.5mm lug spacing. The automated motion was positioned inside a soft-iron Faraday cage to guard it from magnetism. So far as the calibers, Rolex used the 1065 for the inaugural mannequin. The automated motion was derived from the legendary Rolex caliber 1030 and operated at 18,800vph with an influence reserve of 48 hours.
Rolex provided scientists on the Geneva-based Conseil Européen pour la Recherche Nucléaire (CERN) for correct testing within the area. The CERN scientists confirmed that the watches may face up to magnetic fields of as much as 1,000 gauss with none detrimental results on timekeeping. Rolex supposedly solely created 150 items of the Milgauss ref. 6543. As you’ll perceive, even fewer survived. That’s why they fetch astronomical costs after they come up for public sale.
Picture: Phillips
Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541
Not lengthy after the discharge of the ref. 6543, the illustrious Rolex Milgauss ref. 6541 changed it. That is the place we see the Milgauss come into its personal. What stayed had been the 38mm case and the honeycomb dial. However Rolex changed the seconds hand with the now-famous lightning-bolt-shaped hand. Moreover, this reference had a brand new bezel insert consisting of six divisions and a big crimson triangle matching the crimson Milgauss title on the dial.
Picture: Phillips
In keeping with a Rolex advert, the brand new bezel insert “serves as a easy stopwatch or for timing completely different operations.” Other than its useful function, it additionally gave the watch its distinctive character.
Picture: Phillips
The story is slightly complicated in the case of actions. Rolex used caliber 1066M to energy the ref. 6541. It was based mostly on the common caliber 1066 and used components product of antimagnetic supplies, which included the mainspring. Later, the model began utilizing caliber 1065M, also referred to as caliber 1080, which was specifically made for the Milgauss.
Picture: Monaco Legend Auctions
When the Milgauss switched to fastened bezels
Rolex additionally up to date the development of the antimagnetic internal case. The brand new Faraday cage nonetheless had the iron ring across the motion however featured an extra internal case again on high of the common one. Whereas the primary reference had a thicker case again, this new mannequin used a daily case again due to the brand new development. Throughout the later levels of the manufacturing run, Rolex additionally produced variations of the ref. 6541 with a hard and fast polished stainless-steel bezel slightly than the rotating bezel.
Picture: Monaco Legend Auctions
These fashions had been supposedly made for the American market. In comparison with variations with the rotating bezel, although, they weren’t fairly as distinct. Along with the meant functions talked about within the advert, the rotating bezel actually gave the Milgauss ref. 6541 lots of character.
Picture: Phillips
Fairly merely, I like the quirky fashion of the 6541, which hints on the function for which it was created. As I defined in an article about the IWC Ingenieur, I’ve a comfortable spot for engineer’s watches as a result of my father was an engineer. For me, the Milgauss ref. 6541 completely epitomizes an engineer’s watch.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019
In 1960, Rolex changed the ref. 6541 with the brand new ref. 1019. This Milgauss was an enormous change from the 2 watches that got here earlier than. It stayed in manufacturing till 1988, making it one of many references with the longest manufacturing runs in Rolex historical past. As you’ll be able to see, the watch featured an Oyster Precision-style case with a hard and fast, polished bezel. The 38mm diameter remained, however the total fashion modified fairly drastically.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
The Milgauss ref. 1019 was out there with a matte black dial or a vertically brushed silver dial. The latter was particularly cool as a result of that brushed end was beforehand solely used for uncommon Datejust and Oyster fashions. There have been additionally variations with a shiny black dial, however these had been very uncommon. The entire dials featured the Milgauss title in crimson, which corresponded with the crimson tip of the now-straight seconds hand. As you’ll be able to see, the hour and minute palms additionally modified to a form we haven’t seen typically for Rolex watches. However the fashion works effectively with the general aesthetic.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
A brand new aesthetic and a brand new caliber
Rolex eliminated the quirky lightning-bolt-shaped hand that followers love a lot. However you have to perceive that whereas which may be a novel and much-loved characteristic now, the Milgauss ref. 6541 was by no means an enormous industrial success. So it is smart that Rolex eliminated a few of the quirkiness and changed it with a extra straightforward-looking Milgauss.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Contained in the case with its Faraday cage, the model additionally used a brand new motion. Caliber 1580 changed the earlier caliber 1080 and elevated the frequency from 18,000vph to 19,800vph. The ability reserve additionally went as much as 48 hours, and in 1972, Rolex launched hacking as a brand new characteristic.
Picture: Bulang & Sons
Regardless of the up to date aesthetic and the lengthy manufacturing run, the Milgauss ref. 1019 was by no means an amazing vendor. Nevertheless, as you’ll perceive, within the Rolex universe, rarity means excessive costs. That’s why you will notice these fashions go for some huge cash after they pop up on the market. The discontinuation of this reference in 1988 additionally meant that the Milgauss title was not a part of the Rolex assortment.
Rolex Milgauss ref. 116400
That each one modified in 2007 when Rolex launched three new Milgauss variants throughout Baselworld that yr. The Milgauss ref. 116400 was a modern-day Rolex that mixed the fashion of each the refs. 1019 and 6541. The primary two variations featured a black dial and a white dial, each with orange accents.
Picture: The Watch Membership
The third mannequin was the ref. 116400GV (Glas Vert) with a inexperienced sapphire crystal. This particular anniversary mannequin celebrated the fiftieth anniversary of the Milgauss. The three new Milgauss fashions had a much bigger 40mm case and donned the lightning-bolt-shaped seconds hand in all its glory.
Picture: The Watch Membership
All three variations completely signify the quirky character of the classic fashions that got here earlier than, however they accomplish that in fashionable Rolex fashion. The one with the inexperienced sapphire crystal stands out essentially the most, in fact, as a result of it provides an additional factor that turns the quirky character as much as 11.
Contained in the case, Rolex geared up the watches with its caliber 3131. This automated motion was nonetheless positioned inside a Faraday cage but additionally featured a blue Parachrom hairspring. The pallet fork and escape wheel had been product of amorphous and antimagnetic nickel-phosphorus.
Picture: The Watch Membership
Discontinuing the fashions with common sapphire crystals
In 2016, Rolex discontinued the usual black- and white-dial variations after a nine-year manufacturing run. Because of this, solely the model with the black dial and inexperienced crystal and the Z-Blue model that we are going to get to in a minute stayed in manufacturing. As soon as once more, the usual Milgauss fashions didn’t grow to be an enormous industrial success. However a few years after the 2 variations had been discontinued, individuals jumped on them as in the event that they had been the following must-have Rolexes. Right this moment, you will get either of the two for lower than €8,000, making them tempting choices.
Picture: The Watch Membership
Rolex Milgauss ref. 114600GV Z-Blue
This brings us to the final of the Milgauss fashions. The Z-Blue model of the Milgauss debuted in 2014, so for 2 years, Rolex produced all 4 fashionable Milgauss variants. After the discontinuation of the white- and black-dial variations with the common sapphire crystals, the 2 variations with inexperienced sapphire crystals stayed in manufacturing till 2023.
Picture: The Watch Membership
The Z-Blue mannequin has a vibrant electric-blue sunray dial that pops in pure gentle. Mixed with the orange particulars and the inexperienced sapphire, it makes for a unusual and really colourful watch. However there are lots of followers of this Z-Blue model, though it’s technically equal to the opposite ref. 116400 variants. I occur to suppose it’s a bit excessive, whereas the black-dial model hits the candy spot between being quirky and critical.
Picture: The Watch Membership
However the recognition is mirrored within the costs on the secondary market. As of writing, asking prices begin round €10K and improve to €15K for an unworn instance. As compared, asking costs for the black-dial model with the inexperienced sapphire begin at roughly €8.5K and go as much as €15K as effectively. In in the present day’s market, the final era of Milgauss fashions are nonetheless nice picks. They give the impression of being wonderful and haven’t misplaced any of their relevance.
Ultimate ideas on this week’s Prime 5
This begs the query of whether or not the Milgauss will return to the Rolex assortment. At Fratello, we love the model’s quirky engineer’s watch, so we’re all for a contemporary, up to date model of it. Whether or not that may come to fruition or not stays to be seen. With so many common Rolex sports activities fashions, the oddball Milgauss won’t ever be among the many model’s largest industrial successes.
Then once more, neither the 1908 nor the Air-King holds a high spot within the present assortment. And with a narrative just like the Milgauss has, it all the time deserves a spot within the assortment so far as we’re involved. However what are your ideas on the Rolex Milgauss? Tell us within the feedback part what your favourite model is and whether or not you want to see a return. We’ll be again subsequent week for an additional Prime 5.
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